Friday 31st - To Mkuze via Dlinza

 

Friday - we arrived in port before seven, disembarked after breakfast, got a taxi to the airport, collected our hire car, loaded up and set off for Dlinza Forest. On arrival we parked and checked in, paid the fee, and walked through to the boardwalk in the trees. We spent time scanning for the Thrush with no success. Just before the boardwalk turned left a Blue Duiker came slowly through the trees and spent some time browsing as it went before crossing the path and carrying on down the slope. We walked through to the tower where there were lots of Noises and lots of butterflies. We sat up on tower for a while, which was very quiet for birds and quite hot. We walked back, meeting a ‘guide/guard’ who told us to go left. We followed the path, seeing a few bits and being followed by the guard. We went down an incline, crossed abridge with several dragonflies and then climbed gently up. We met a group in a picnic area where we had good views of Purple Turaco, but no Thrush. We kept going back to the car.

Drives to Mkuze. Arrived a 4 Check in, find chalet name on board, key in door and settled in.

Made pasta dish, plus biscuits.

Flock Thursday 30th

 

Thursday 30th

A slightly later get up, spending a bit of time on the balcony, before heading down to deck 7. We chose the port side but moved to starboard when some dolphins were called, only to find that they were probably on the port side after all. About 15 mins later I read a message from Jake to say a Barau’s had gone down the port side about 20 minutes before!!! Just not meant to be.

We went to breakfast around 9.30 and then sat at the back for a while with Jake, Ian and their friends, had a cup of tea, headed down to get our optics cleaned and then headed back to deck 7 ending up on the port side with very few people. There followed an amazing couple of hours with sightings of at least 5 whales, Grey’s Beaked Whales and Southern Bottlenosed Whales plus a couple of Tropical and Cory’s Shearwaters. We went for lunch around 2.30 and then walked through to the pool deck around 3.30 for the group photo, and a selfie with Jake, which was followed by a young man who a sang a self-penned song. We met up and chatted with first Martin Winrow, Bjorn and then Magnus, catching up on things. We went back and removed some of the cold weather gear as the temperature has risen significantly and then sat on the balcony for the rest of the day.

We had to pack our bags to put outside the door by 2.00 am so tried to work out what I needed and what could go in the bag. Once that was done we went up for dinner with Jake and Barnie before turning in.

Flock - Wednesday 29th

 

Wednesday  29th

Up at 5.00am and spent half an hour or so on the balcony, seeing Sooty and Indian Yellow-nosed Albatrosses, Soft-plumaged Petrels, which we were going to see all day and a couple of Storm Petrels before collecting up our things and heading down to deck 7 for another day of staring at the sea! A few more Soft-plumaged Petrels were eclipsed by two groups of Gray’s Beaked Whales and short but great views of 3/4 Strapped-toothed Beak Whales. We went up for breakfast around 10 and managed to get some food, no fruit though, before they feared it all away.

Between breakfast and lunch we went to the front on deck 14 which was very windy and glarey. We stood talking to Jim Glover and Chris Skinner, old RSPB friends. I picked up two whales crossing the bow which were more Longman’s Beaked Whales, nice views. Something I really wanted to see was a flying squid and one took off and covered a short distance, glittering as it went from the starboard side, hope there are more.

Following lunch we returned to deck 7 and spent the rest of the day looking out at more Great-winged and Soft-plumaged Petrels, Indian yeel nos, sooty and a few Wandering Albtrosses as well as Tropical Shearwaters and White-headed Pestrel. Near the end of the day a lad called a petrel with a white underwing, we managed to see a couple of birds right down near the wake, one of which probably a Barau’s Petrel, but really not very satisfactory, hoping tomorrow brings more luck.

We left the deck just after 7 to go for dinner in the Buffet with Jake and Ian.

Tuesday 28th Heading home.

 

An early start of 4.30 had us on the balcony before going downstairs to deck 7. There were birds everywhere and this continued most of the day, mostly Salvin’s Petrels but there were also lots of Grey-headed, Sooty and Wandering Albatrosses plus a few Indian Yellow-nosed. A few Brown Skuas were about, one harassing a Wanderer. During the morning there was a small rush of Blue Petrels and later in the day a couple of White-headed Petrels floated through and we saw a few Black-bellied Storm Petrels and a Wilson’s. Most frustrating was the news of Kerguelen Petrels being seen yesterday but no news was put out!

The boat turned around at 10 am and headed back to Durban. The numbers of birds slowly dwindled the further we got from the island but there were a couple of cetaceans seen, including a Blue Whale in the distance and what was probably a Southern Right Whale.

A tiring but busy day.

Monday 27th Marion and Prince Edward Islands

 

An earlier start around 5.00 am with an half hour or so on the balcony before going down to deck 7 where we spent most of the day. Non-stop birds, mainly Salvin’s Prions but also Albatrosses and Penguins, including the much hoped for Southern Rockhopper Penguins. We also saw Gentoo, Macaroni and King Penguins, mainly porpoising through the water away from the boat but still recognisable. A real excitement came with the call of a Pintado (Cape) Petre which luckily came down our side of the boat giving good views. Unfortunately, my camera wouldn’t focus so no photos. The islands also showed through the clouds at times, giving photographable views. It also showed snow on the tops of the mountains. 

We had a break for breakfast, lunch and around 5 o’clock for a cup of tea, before going back to the cabins to sort out the pictures and get ready for dinner.

We agreed to meet in the cafeteria around 8, where we found the place pretty full. Jake then told us all about a Kerguelen Petrel that had been seen by the guides, they had luckily been there so managed very dark views.

Sunday 26th January

 

Feeling much better, I woke up around 5.30 and sat out on the balcony for a bit, with Dark-winged petrels and a couple of Wandering Albatrosses floating by before going down to deck 7 for a while. Bird numbers had picked up with a Wandering Albatross criss-crossing the wake that caused some controversy about whether it was a Wandering or Tristan’s. After breakfast we went out the back looking over the wake. 

During the day there were Little Shearwaters, Black-bellied Storm petrel, Indian Yellow-nosed, Great Winged, Salvins Prions, Wandering Albatross, Sooty Albatross and Sooty Shearwater passing by, often quite distant. I did fall asleep for a couple of hours in the afternoon but am feeling a lot better. The weather was cool but not freezing and I had put on my thermals. 

We met up with Jake and Barney for our evening meal, choosing the cafeteria as being quicker and with more variety, before going back to the cabin, writing up notes and the bird list and turning in. 

Saturday 25th

 

Saturday

Didn’t wake up till 6 and then fell back to sleep. Woke again at around 8 and slowly got up. Sat on the balcony for quite a while not seeing very much before heading out for breakfast. We then went to the customer desk to see if they could sort out the cold shower, which they did a little later. I also went to see where my Firefinch stuff was, I was told they would announce when it could be collected.

We then went out on deck. I wasn’t feeling too good and wrapped up really warm as I was shivery and spent most of the time nodding off. David shouted out a whale sp but I couldn’t see it. So once we had lunch I decided to go back to the cabin and sleep there.

I woke up around 6 ish and felt better so I got up, looked out from the balcony for a while and then we went for dinner in the cafeteria this time, meeting up with Jake and Ian.

I was back and in bed by about 9.30.