An early get up and quick breakfast before we went for our last safari into the park. Our guide and driver were very friendly and tried really hard to find us lions, especially the ones with cubs but all we could find were pug marks, and we did hear one roaring. We drove round route 2 and spent a lot more time stopping and looking at some of the smaller birds as well as one or two larger ones. We saw Small Minivet, White-fronted Minivet and wood shrike as well as prinias. Our guide managed to wangle us a view of a male lion resting up before we returned to the lodge, late. We had a clean up, packed, ate a brunch before saying a sad farewell to Lokesh's really friendly relatives and thenstaff of the Gir Birding Lodge.
We had a 5 1/2 hour drive with just a quick loo and tea break. This was definitely the worst loo of the entire trip, with green slime around the leaking taps, cracked and dirty foot pads and a pedestal toilet I didn't dare explore. The chai was lovely but the state of the cups was real cause for concern.
We arrived at Velavador in time to take a short drive into the reserve and saw several herds of Blackbuck, a mongoose and some Sambar. We also went up a tower and watched hundreds of Montegue's, Pallid and Marsh Harriers come into roost. There was also a tree full of Indian Pond Heron and a Purple Heron flew by.
We drove back to the Lodge, booked in and settled into our very luxurious rooms.
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Sunday, 1 December 2013
India - Day 9 - Gir forest. Route 1 am, Route 5 pm
6.00 o'clock breakfast for a 6.30 safari. This time we were on route 1 which seemed to skirt the forest edge more. We saw more Samba, Spotted deer. Lots of plum-headed parakeets, we drove through a village and past several herds of cows. We also had Black-rumped Flameback, Langour monkey, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher, White-eyed Buzzard and Indian Scops Owl but no lions.
Back at the Lodge we took a leisurely walk round the orchard, with Yellow-wattled Lapwing, little egret and Peacock. We also found some more butterflies.
After lunch, with Coppersmith Barbets, Greenish warbler and Bulbuls in the Banyan tree, we did some verandah birding with Black Redstart, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Tinkerbird and Common Iora flitting around in the Mango trees.
The afternoon safari was a bit of a disappointment as we didn't see very much, other than more Spotted and Sambar deer, a couple of Stone Curlew and some plum-headed parakeets and we did meet some jeeps coming the other way with big grins on their faces, they had just seen 2 females and 3 cubs but we weren't allowed to go as it wasn't on our route. The driver and guide would lose their licence if they left the prescribed route, VERY frustrating! The route, though was much more open and pleasant, although very dusty.
Back to the lodge for dinner and an early night before our last safari in the morning.
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Back at the Lodge we took a leisurely walk round the orchard, with Yellow-wattled Lapwing, little egret and Peacock. We also found some more butterflies.
After lunch, with Coppersmith Barbets, Greenish warbler and Bulbuls in the Banyan tree, we did some verandah birding with Black Redstart, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Tinkerbird and Common Iora flitting around in the Mango trees.
The afternoon safari was a bit of a disappointment as we didn't see very much, other than more Spotted and Sambar deer, a couple of Stone Curlew and some plum-headed parakeets and we did meet some jeeps coming the other way with big grins on their faces, they had just seen 2 females and 3 cubs but we weren't allowed to go as it wasn't on our route. The driver and guide would lose their licence if they left the prescribed route, VERY frustrating! The route, though was much more open and pleasant, although very dusty.
Back to the lodge for dinner and an early night before our last safari in the morning.
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India -Gujarat - Leopard and Lions
An early morning breakfast at 6.00am before loading up the Gypsy and setting off for Gir Lion Park. There is a fair amount of paperwork to be filled in and 1 person has to carry I passport, as well as sorting out camera fees before hand. 600 IRs per camera, per drive!
The light was coming up as we entered and we were soon driving along the rutty, dusty forest trails looking for birds and animals. Our first sighting was Nilgai and Chittal before a real surprise. As we drove along a head was spotted - a lion? No, a leopard! It sat and looked at us for while in the golden morning light before strolling off, as we waited it re-appeared and crossed the road before melting away into the trees.
During the rest of the drive we kept an eye out for lion but no luck. We did see Painted sandgrouse, both kingfishers, plus......
We returned to the lodge for 9.00 am, had a nice cup of Marsala chai before setting off for a walk along the river. We had several birds incl munia, rose finch, etc.
After lunch we had a leisurely lounge on the veranda before setting off for our afternoon game drive. We saw 3 male lions, one chewing on the remains of a cow, 2 lazing about by the side of the road, with attendants making sure they weren't harmed! We also saw a crocodile, wagtails, and had a very unusual and rough crossing of a dam.
Back for dinner with fish caught by Lokash's brother.
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The light was coming up as we entered and we were soon driving along the rutty, dusty forest trails looking for birds and animals. Our first sighting was Nilgai and Chittal before a real surprise. As we drove along a head was spotted - a lion? No, a leopard! It sat and looked at us for while in the golden morning light before strolling off, as we waited it re-appeared and crossed the road before melting away into the trees.
During the rest of the drive we kept an eye out for lion but no luck. We did see Painted sandgrouse, both kingfishers, plus......
We returned to the lodge for 9.00 am, had a nice cup of Marsala chai before setting off for a walk along the river. We had several birds incl munia, rose finch, etc.
After lunch we had a leisurely lounge on the veranda before setting off for our afternoon game drive. We saw 3 male lions, one chewing on the remains of a cow, 2 lazing about by the side of the road, with attendants making sure they weren't harmed! We also saw a crocodile, wagtails, and had a very unusual and rough crossing of a dam.
Back for dinner with fish caught by Lokash's brother.
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Crab Plovers and on to Gir Lion Sanctuary
A slightly later 'American' style breakfast of cornflakes, jammy toast and tea or coffee and we were ready for our next adventure. Packing up the car we then drove towards the Marine Wildlife Sanctuary but a few KMs on as the tide wasn't right until later. A fortuitous stop to check some cranes, turned out to be Demoiselles Cranes flying over to a creek. As we walked out to see if we could see them better we found Malabar Larks, short-toed larks .... On a pool there were Black-winged stilts, Red-wattled Lapwing ....and as we scanned for cranes a party of four Grey Mongoose came out and poked about before scuttling off. In the bushes a group of White-eyes twittered about, flying down into the cotton bushes.
We drove back to the reserve, sorted out the paperwork and then drove on to the area for Crab Plovers, which don't appear until the tide is about 2 hours down. The area is a vast sandy beach with dark, rocky coral 'reefs' with shallow and deeper pools and channels, where the Crab Plovers were feeding. Along with them were Great White Egrets, Reef Herons, Redshank, Greenshank, Lesser and Greater Sandplovers and eventually a Broad-billed Sandpiper. Among the pools Lokash found a Lizard fish, some crabs and several shells. With very wet feet we returned to the bus for the drive to Sassingir.
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We drove back to the reserve, sorted out the paperwork and then drove on to the area for Crab Plovers, which don't appear until the tide is about 2 hours down. The area is a vast sandy beach with dark, rocky coral 'reefs' with shallow and deeper pools and channels, where the Crab Plovers were feeding. Along with them were Great White Egrets, Reef Herons, Redshank, Greenshank, Lesser and Greater Sandplovers and eventually a Broad-billed Sandpiper. Among the pools Lokash found a Lizard fish, some crabs and several shells. With very wet feet we returned to the bus for the drive to Sassingir.
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Drive to Jamnegar
6.30 breakfast for. 7.00 ish start on the long drive to Jammegar. We had a tea break on the way and continue to be in awe do the Indian driver as he negotiates cows, dogs, bikes, motorbikes, tuktuks and lorries which all seem to be doing their own thing. The route goes through lots of villages and it is interesting to get a snapshot as we pass through.
Arriving at the Hotel President in Jamnegar we settled in and had lunch before we set off for the Kidjyah Bird Sanctuary. We drove along the tracks and stopped for a walk along a brick path where Lokash found a Booted eagle sitting on a branch and we also saw Paradise flycatcher, Golden Oriole, White-throated Kingfisher, Coucal and Darter among others.
We drove further along to 3 tower hides where we could look out across a huge area of lagoons, reeds and bushes with hundreds of birds including White painted stork, Pelican, Sacred Ibis, and lots of duck.
The driver flushed a Wild cat which shot across the track and then re-appeared behind me and Carol found another one out in the grassy area. We also had Nilgai and Wild Boar. A drive round to the other side of the reserve and we had hundreds of crane flighting in and Paddyfield Warbler, Clamorous Reed Warbler and Bluethroat in the greenery below the tower.
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Arriving at the Hotel President in Jamnegar we settled in and had lunch before we set off for the Kidjyah Bird Sanctuary. We drove along the tracks and stopped for a walk along a brick path where Lokash found a Booted eagle sitting on a branch and we also saw Paradise flycatcher, Golden Oriole, White-throated Kingfisher, Coucal and Darter among others.
We drove further along to 3 tower hides where we could look out across a huge area of lagoons, reeds and bushes with hundreds of birds including White painted stork, Pelican, Sacred Ibis, and lots of duck.
The driver flushed a Wild cat which shot across the track and then re-appeared behind me and Carol found another one out in the grassy area. We also had Nilgai and Wild Boar. A drive round to the other side of the reserve and we had hundreds of crane flighting in and Paddyfield Warbler, Clamorous Reed Warbler and Bluethroat in the greenery below the tower.
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Monday, 25 November 2013
India day 6 - No- one told the birds we were coming
One thing to remember is that the wildlife doesn't know you're coming. An early start, Masala chai and biscuits and we headed for a site for Grey Hypocolious, although no-one had seen any yet this year, the rains had been late and the bushes were only just flowering, no berries for them to feed on. We arrived and walked out across some fields of castor to the favoured spot, but although we gave it over an hour, no luck. We did see at least 2 Marshall's Iora which was a bonus, plus lots of larks, bulbuls, common babbler and grey fronted prinia.
We then headed for an area of dried lake bed and volcanic mounds to look for Red-tailed wheatear, which was found just as we were about to start breakfast. Also floating past was a Montague's Harrier. After breakfast, with chai, we drove round the grasslands seeing Grey Frankolin, lots of common cranes, curlew and larks before returning via a small water trough overflow. Along the bank was a lovely Bluethroat and dropping down to drink were Chestnut-shouldered Petronias. A stop and walk through the scrub and over some volcanic mounds and we were shown an Eagle Owl resting in the shade of a tree. We spent a little time watching and photographing it before heading back to the car.
As we headed back for lunch the guide got a call to say there was a Caracal taken into care, would we like to see it, YES! The poor thing had been in an accident and they were going to help it recover before releasing it back into the wild, sad to see it in a cage but beautiful.
Lunch at the Lodge.
Afternoon return for bustards but again no luck, trying to find 1 of only 15 birds in this vast expanse is very difficult but we gave it a try. We also saw Stolicza's ... Hundreds of larks, stonechat, finishing up with nearly 30 Montague and Pallid Harriers swooping around us as they went to roost in the grasslands.
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We then headed for an area of dried lake bed and volcanic mounds to look for Red-tailed wheatear, which was found just as we were about to start breakfast. Also floating past was a Montague's Harrier. After breakfast, with chai, we drove round the grasslands seeing Grey Frankolin, lots of common cranes, curlew and larks before returning via a small water trough overflow. Along the bank was a lovely Bluethroat and dropping down to drink were Chestnut-shouldered Petronias. A stop and walk through the scrub and over some volcanic mounds and we were shown an Eagle Owl resting in the shade of a tree. We spent a little time watching and photographing it before heading back to the car.
As we headed back for lunch the guide got a call to say there was a Caracal taken into care, would we like to see it, YES! The poor thing had been in an accident and they were going to help it recover before releasing it back into the wild, sad to see it in a cage but beautiful.
Lunch at the Lodge.
Afternoon return for bustards but again no luck, trying to find 1 of only 15 birds in this vast expanse is very difficult but we gave it a try. We also saw Stolicza's ... Hundreds of larks, stonechat, finishing up with nearly 30 Montague and Pallid Harriers swooping around us as they went to roost in the grasslands.
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Sunday, 24 November 2013
India day 5 Lala bustard sanctuary and Fort Mahdev
Chai at 6.15 and we were ready for our 6.30 start to the Lala bustard sanctuary with a focus on seeing Great Indian Bustard. Our first stop was at a high concrete tower where we scanned across the grasslands but only saw a harrier, some wild boar and hundreds of larks. We moved on, stopping for Red-fronted Prinia, Grey-necked Bunting and Grey Francolin before turning off onto a sandy track. We spent some time searching , asking a ranger in a very smart uniform for info and and stopping for a packed breakfast of bread, cheese, banana crisps and chai but no luck. We did see 2 very smart Yellow-wattled Lapwing and thousand more short-toed larks, a Steppe Grey Shrike and Montague's Harrier among other things.
We drove on to another part of the reserve, several miles away and were beginning to slowly search this area when a man came across the grasslands on his bike. It seems he had seen 2 bustards a little way away. We jumped back into the car and followed him but by now the bustards were out of sight. We stood around while the man and his mate searched but again no luck. We did have lots of birds and a few butterflies to look at so we were happy.
After this we returned to the lodge for lunch.
The afternoon safari was to a different area and we were soon watching Marshall's Iora, White-bellied Minivet, Yellow-eyed Babbler and Common Bushrike through the acacia and cacti scrub before we headed further for White-napped tit which we eventually saw. An unexpected sight was a nightjar sitting in the middle of the road.
We arrived back for a cup,of chai, a shower and dinner.
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We drove on to another part of the reserve, several miles away and were beginning to slowly search this area when a man came across the grasslands on his bike. It seems he had seen 2 bustards a little way away. We jumped back into the car and followed him but by now the bustards were out of sight. We stood around while the man and his mate searched but again no luck. We did have lots of birds and a few butterflies to look at so we were happy.
After this we returned to the lodge for lunch.
The afternoon safari was to a different area and we were soon watching Marshall's Iora, White-bellied Minivet, Yellow-eyed Babbler and Common Bushrike through the acacia and cacti scrub before we headed further for White-napped tit which we eventually saw. An unexpected sight was a nightjar sitting in the middle of the road.
We arrived back for a cup,of chai, a shower and dinner.
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Saturday, 23 November 2013
Drive to CEDO camp, Bhuj
Following breakfast at the civilised time of 7.30 we set off on the long drive to CEDO camp for the next leg of our journey. We kept ourselves amused looking out for birds on the wires and a stop for some Indian Coursers, which Lokash spotted as we drove past. We had another stop at a brilliant lake with lots of duck, cormorant, flamingo and a group of fishing pelicans. On the other side there were hundreds of small waders which included Dublin, marsh sandpiper and many others, but they were difficult to see.
We also took the opportunity to soak the local way of life and the driving attitudes and practices!
We arrived at CEDO at about 5.00, a little later than expected so no birding there and a quick re-arrangement of the itinerary while we sat and had a very relaxing cold drink before taking the time for a nice hot shower and a very good local meal eaten the Indian way, putting the soya balls and vegetable curry on the stainless steel tray with the rice and chapattis and putting yoghurt and lentils in a small bowl. No knives and forks, just a spoon or using the chapattis to collect mouthfuls of food.
An early night in readiness of an early start.
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We also took the opportunity to soak the local way of life and the driving attitudes and practices!
We arrived at CEDO at about 5.00, a little later than expected so no birding there and a quick re-arrangement of the itinerary while we sat and had a very relaxing cold drink before taking the time for a nice hot shower and a very good local meal eaten the Indian way, putting the soya balls and vegetable curry on the stainless steel tray with the rice and chapattis and putting yoghurt and lentils in a small bowl. No knives and forks, just a spoon or using the chapattis to collect mouthfuls of food.
An early night in readiness of an early start.
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India day 3 Wild Ass Sanctuary, cats and foxes
Another 7.00 breakfast before setting out on a drive mirth to a different part of the wild ass sanctuary. We entered the sanctuary over a bridge that was being remarried and came out on a track just before the bridge, an insight into road works in India. We drove down the narrow road and tracks onto the lake bed, which is an amazing huge landscape which goes for miles with acacia thorn bushes and scrub dotted about. At this time of year there is still water in a shallow lake with thousands of water birds on it. Later on the water dries up and the birds move to (lake from yesterday) but the asses manage to survive through the year.
On the lake were thousands of flamingo, both lesser and greater, avocet, great white pelican, spoonbill plus ducks and Imperial, Spotted and Indian spotted eagles standing around on the waters edge. When these took off and floated across the water there was a mass panic flight with an amazing noise.
We spent the rest of the morning visiting different areas of the lake, soaking up the atmosphere and the thousands of birds before returning for a late lunch, no swim today.
The afternoon drive was a return to the first area of the betts where we drove around the scrubby areas looking for desert fox. A rapid stop and reverse and the guide had spotted a Syke's nightjar roosting under an acacia bush, a phenomenal spot. As we jolted around among the thorn bushes we flushed lots of greater shirt-toed larks, a few quail and some chestnut sandgrouse, but the highlight was a quick turn by the driver a call if cat, cat and crouched on the ground was a Jungle Cat which crouched in a hollow of the ground before skulking off into the bushes.
We bumped around more bushes, past a fox den, before the driver spotted a Desert fox trotting across a patch of open ground, we watched it running between bushes and then followed it, spotting it through the gaps before it ran into the distance.
As we were watching the fox the guide told us that there was a desert fox calling so we drove in that direction, with a short diversion to look at 4 McQueen's bustards before the driver and guide spotted a head sticking out from behind a small bush, Indian Fox, much smaller that Desert fox with big ears and a very grey colour with black tip,to the tail. Again we followed it as it trotted away through the bushes, finding it behind us, calling before it or disappeared back into the bushes.
The driver connected up the spot lamp to the battery and as we returned another Indian fox was picked up on eye shine, followed by a Jungle cat with a young one and a flying nightjar species. We were a very happy group as we returned for dinner which was enlivened by a local nature watching group deciding on an impromptu dance session to the rhythmic drumming of a local drummer.
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On the lake were thousands of flamingo, both lesser and greater, avocet, great white pelican, spoonbill plus ducks and Imperial, Spotted and Indian spotted eagles standing around on the waters edge. When these took off and floated across the water there was a mass panic flight with an amazing noise.
We spent the rest of the morning visiting different areas of the lake, soaking up the atmosphere and the thousands of birds before returning for a late lunch, no swim today.
The afternoon drive was a return to the first area of the betts where we drove around the scrubby areas looking for desert fox. A rapid stop and reverse and the guide had spotted a Syke's nightjar roosting under an acacia bush, a phenomenal spot. As we jolted around among the thorn bushes we flushed lots of greater shirt-toed larks, a few quail and some chestnut sandgrouse, but the highlight was a quick turn by the driver a call if cat, cat and crouched on the ground was a Jungle Cat which crouched in a hollow of the ground before skulking off into the bushes.
We bumped around more bushes, past a fox den, before the driver spotted a Desert fox trotting across a patch of open ground, we watched it running between bushes and then followed it, spotting it through the gaps before it ran into the distance.
As we were watching the fox the guide told us that there was a desert fox calling so we drove in that direction, with a short diversion to look at 4 McQueen's bustards before the driver and guide spotted a head sticking out from behind a small bush, Indian Fox, much smaller that Desert fox with big ears and a very grey colour with black tip,to the tail. Again we followed it as it trotted away through the bushes, finding it behind us, calling before it or disappeared back into the bushes.
The driver connected up the spot lamp to the battery and as we returned another Indian fox was picked up on eye shine, followed by a Jungle cat with a young one and a flying nightjar species. We were a very happy group as we returned for dinner which was enlivened by a local nature watching group deciding on an impromptu dance session to the rhythmic drumming of a local drummer.
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India day 2 Rann Riders
Breakfast at 7.00 for a 7.30 start and we set off for our morning 'safari'. We drove for about an hour, stopping for birds on the way. We had great views of Black-winged kite, Green Pigeon ... Before driving down a lane and out onto the Betts, a huge dried up lake bed with ruts and lines of 'petrified' Footprints across the ground. We spent a lot of time searching for Hoopoe lark but no luck. We did see desert wheatears, pallid harrier and a jungle bush quail. Dotted around the landscape on the 'slightly' raised betts were a few shelters where they were extracting salt. We also saw more Wild Asses. On the way back we saw mongoose and saris crane ....
Returning for lunch and a swim and a walk round the garden before a 3.30 afternoon trip out to a lake area..... We drove through a small village and turned toward the lake down a rutted track. The lake was teeming with birds including G flamingos, cranes,
As we were leaving we drove through a funeral. Procession of women going to wash and then we saw the funeral pyre with the men sitting round.
In the afternoon
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Returning for lunch and a swim and a walk round the garden before a 3.30 afternoon trip out to a lake area..... We drove through a small village and turned toward the lake down a rutted track. The lake was teeming with birds including G flamingos, cranes,
As we were leaving we drove through a funeral. Procession of women going to wash and then we saw the funeral pyre with the men sitting round.
In the afternoon
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India Day 1 Rann Riders
I will try and keep this up wherever possible, pictures might be a bit later.
9.15 flight from Heathrow with Etihad got us into Ahmedabad at around 3.00 the next morning via a 3 hour stopover at Abu Dhabi. We were met by our guide Lokshan Kumar and after packing ourselves and all our luggage into an MPV we had a reasonably safe drive to Rann Riders where we were met, welcomed shown to our rooms and then met back up for breakfast. There was salad and fruit, toast, 3 different choices of omelette, boiled egg, chickpea mixture and tea and coffee. We had a short time to sort out our bags etc before we met up with Lokash Kumar, our guide for the trip, at 8.30 for a gentle walk around the local area. We started off in the gardens and then walked round an adjacent rough field with .... And then we walked out across the road and along a track beside some damp fields and a lake area. There were lots of birds including ........
We returned to the lodge around 12.00 and after agreeing to meet Lokash at 1.30 we spent some time in the pool while David did a bit of birding and butterflying. Lunch was curried chicken (moderate) lamb chicken (hot) potatoes in herbs, vegetarian vegetable curry and rice, with chocolate and hazelnut mousse type pudding. We agreed to meet up at 3.00pm for a jeep ride into the Wild Ass Park.
We met up with our driver and set off into the Betts around Kari/Jinora. On the way we began to get to know the common local birds but we also saw Sirkeer Malkoha and Black-winged kite. We drove into the Betts along sandy, rutted tracks where we saw Wild Ass, Short-toed larks and an amazing landscape of vast areas of dried up river bed with Acacia scrub belts and clumps. On the 'slightly' raised area there were a few settlements, the people making a living from extracting salt.
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9.15 flight from Heathrow with Etihad got us into Ahmedabad at around 3.00 the next morning via a 3 hour stopover at Abu Dhabi. We were met by our guide Lokshan Kumar and after packing ourselves and all our luggage into an MPV we had a reasonably safe drive to Rann Riders where we were met, welcomed shown to our rooms and then met back up for breakfast. There was salad and fruit, toast, 3 different choices of omelette, boiled egg, chickpea mixture and tea and coffee. We had a short time to sort out our bags etc before we met up with Lokash Kumar, our guide for the trip, at 8.30 for a gentle walk around the local area. We started off in the gardens and then walked round an adjacent rough field with .... And then we walked out across the road and along a track beside some damp fields and a lake area. There were lots of birds including ........
We returned to the lodge around 12.00 and after agreeing to meet Lokash at 1.30 we spent some time in the pool while David did a bit of birding and butterflying. Lunch was curried chicken (moderate) lamb chicken (hot) potatoes in herbs, vegetarian vegetable curry and rice, with chocolate and hazelnut mousse type pudding. We agreed to meet up at 3.00pm for a jeep ride into the Wild Ass Park.
We met up with our driver and set off into the Betts around Kari/Jinora. On the way we began to get to know the common local birds but we also saw Sirkeer Malkoha and Black-winged kite. We drove into the Betts along sandy, rutted tracks where we saw Wild Ass, Short-toed larks and an amazing landscape of vast areas of dried up river bed with Acacia scrub belts and clumps. On the 'slightly' raised area there were a few settlements, the people making a living from extracting salt.
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Tuesday, 27 August 2013
Back Home
After another breakfast of sausage, egg, salad, yoghurt and toast and marmalade we walked back along the track to the public hide where we spent a bit of time.
A Capercallie called from the forest but didn't come out and the Tree Pipits and Rustic Buntings from the early morning had dispersed so we wandered back, loaded up the car and set off back towards Tampere.
We stopped a couple of times, seeing Hooded Crow, Buzzard and a few gulls, once at an odd sign which turned out to be a forest path to a well which looked reasonably OK apart from some long green algae.
We began looking for accommodation when we were about 2 hours away from Tampere and eventually turned left towards a sign which turned out to be a converted farm building which could hold conferences and up to 70 in the sauna.
It looked deserted but eventually we found the owner and she checked us in. We had to drive about 15 minutes down the road to a restaurant on the edge of the lake where we had a lovely meal, including a very nice glass of Blueberry wine, produced by the restaurant owners from their own fruit. We returned to the hotel for a sauna, with Chris being brave enough to finish off with a cold shower. The electrics in the other room failed and the owner had to come and remove a self-installed lamp before it would come back on, which was a little worrying.
Breakfast was the usual egg, meats, saddle and salads. We had a look around the buildings which were the landladies natal home and chatted to her husband about their plans, which include a trail up the hill opposite with a watch hide form the top. They are renovating this part of the farm and he showed us the locking mechanism, which is 19th century with an enormous key. He was being help up by a 'special bird' that was nesting in the end room.
We walked up the road where there were birds flitting about among the trees, including Willow warblers, tits and a Great spotted Woodpecker before setting off for the airport and home.
We stopped a couple of times, seeing Hooded Crow, Buzzard and a few gulls, once at an odd sign which turned out to be a forest path to a well which looked reasonably OK apart from some long green algae.
It looked deserted but eventually we found the owner and she checked us in. We had to drive about 15 minutes down the road to a restaurant on the edge of the lake where we had a lovely meal, including a very nice glass of Blueberry wine, produced by the restaurant owners from their own fruit. We returned to the hotel for a sauna, with Chris being brave enough to finish off with a cold shower. The electrics in the other room failed and the owner had to come and remove a self-installed lamp before it would come back on, which was a little worrying.
We walked up the road where there were birds flitting about among the trees, including Willow warblers, tits and a Great spotted Woodpecker before setting off for the airport and home.
Sunday, 25 August 2013
Bear Nights 2
Because we had been there already we were allowed to take ourselves to the hides when we were ready so we collected our snack packs and set off. There was a group of photographers who were spread out among the other hides, including one in a single hide. We swapped hides this time and settled down for another watch. The weather had not been good and there were no birds to help keep us amused but luckily a bear appeared before it got dark. Unfortunately it spooked and disappeared back into the woods and we had to wait a while before the neck collared bear appeared and spent some time foraging along the shoreline. It walked to our left and then approached closer, finding a feeder about 30 feet away, standing up to check out the surroundings. It also appeared at the back and made a wide circuit of the wet meadow behind the hides. The light was better but not good and we managed to get some photographs.
The bear spent some time feeding and then went off about it's business. Next morning the chap in the single hide reckoned he had up to 3 bears around his hide during the night as well as a big bear out in the meadow.
Next morning we woke up to another damp but less misty morning and on cue at 4.15am a Wolverine appeared among the trees, making it's way left to right. I managed to see it for about 2 seconds as it bounded between some trees and disappeared.
The bears are supposed to only be active between 7.00 at night and 6.00 in the morning so we were really surprised, as we were just beginning to pack up ready to return to the lodge, to see a large bear appear at 6.35 picking it's way around the food, but not staying very long before ambling off to the right and away.
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Next morning we woke up to another damp but less misty morning and on cue at 4.15am a Wolverine appeared among the trees, making it's way left to right. I managed to see it for about 2 seconds as it bounded between some trees and disappeared.
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Around Kuhmo
After a buffet breakfast which was the usual mix of porridge/muesli with a selection of nuts or fruit plus eggs, sausages, meat, cheese and salad with fruit juices we decided to take a drive around, find some lunch and, hopefully, see an Elk, something I really wanted to see. We tried one of the forest tracks, looking for any suitable habitat. One stop gave lots of Capercallie poo but no birds and a then we found a good viewpoint our over the forest with Honey Buzzards, Waxwings and *
The forests are quite difficult to penetrate are as the trees grow close together and any gaps are covered with moss and shrubs like Bearberry, Cowberry and Blaeberry. Along the paths there were several fungi of different colours, shapes and sizes.
Then we went back to the main road and drove towards the Russian Border crossing, turning round before it and taking a right hand road to the north. Various stops gave not much and it was quite damp with showers on and off all day. One stop had a bird singing quite strongly but we couldn't get a view and it remains a mystery. However, we did stop to make our way through a damp, mossy wood to view a wet meadow and there, crossing from left to right was an Elk! Great views but no cameras.
The forests are quite difficult to penetrate are as the trees grow close together and any gaps are covered with moss and shrubs like Bearberry, Cowberry and Blaeberry. Along the paths there were several fungi of different colours, shapes and sizes.
Then we went back to the main road and drove towards the Russian Border crossing, turning round before it and taking a right hand road to the north. Various stops gave not much and it was quite damp with showers on and off all day. One stop had a bird singing quite strongly but we couldn't get a view and it remains a mystery. However, we did stop to make our way through a damp, mossy wood to view a wet meadow and there, crossing from left to right was an Elk! Great views but no cameras.
Time was passing so we headed back to the lodge for another 4.00pm dinner of soup, chicken curry and rice and fruit jelly before collecting our snack packs and setting off back to the hides for a second evening of bear watching.
Friday, 23 August 2013
Brown Bear Nights 1
During dinner we told about how/what to do and a safety talk in case of trouble! Then we picked up our snack bag which held a ham sandwich each, a piece of fruit and a flack of hot water with tea-bags and coffee, sugar and milk plus a teaspoon, and set off through the forest paths to the hides. You have to be in the hide by 6.00pm and lock yourself in until 7.00am next morning.
There are 2 kinds of hides. On the slope coming out of the forest are three public hides which hold 8 people and are available through the day. Then there are several photographic hides which are set around the lake facing across it or looking out over the wet meadow between the slope and the lake. All the hides have slit viewing slots and camera holes with sleeves so that cameras and lenses can be set up without disturbing the wild life.The hides are basic but do have reasonably comfortable bunk beds and a bucket toilet.
We settled into hides 1 & 2 and peered out of the windows. On the bank opposite there were Baltic Gulls, Ravens, Hooded Crows and Herring Gulls picking around the stashed food which is put out for the bears which kept us interested through the darkening evening.
Just as we were thinking that nothing was coming a bear appeared in the distance, moving to eh lt through the trees at the back of the wet meadow. Unfortunately it disappeared but patience was rewarded when it appeared again through the trees on the left and worked it's way along the bank opposite, shuffling and crunching it's way through the food provided. It was too dark for photographs but great views. Then a second bear appeared and also investigated the food stashes. It eventually moved off to the right and was seen again foraging around the wet meadows behind our hide.
A reasonaby comfortable but broken nights sleep and an early dawn brought a very misty morning, and through the mist a Wolverine appeared bounding through the mist for about 10 seconds and was gone.
There are 2 kinds of hides. On the slope coming out of the forest are three public hides which hold 8 people and are available through the day. Then there are several photographic hides which are set around the lake facing across it or looking out over the wet meadow between the slope and the lake. All the hides have slit viewing slots and camera holes with sleeves so that cameras and lenses can be set up without disturbing the wild life.The hides are basic but do have reasonably comfortable bunk beds and a bucket toilet.
We settled into hides 1 & 2 and peered out of the windows. On the bank opposite there were Baltic Gulls, Ravens, Hooded Crows and Herring Gulls picking around the stashed food which is put out for the bears which kept us interested through the darkening evening.
Just as we were thinking that nothing was coming a bear appeared in the distance, moving to eh lt through the trees at the back of the wet meadow. Unfortunately it disappeared but patience was rewarded when it appeared again through the trees on the left and worked it's way along the bank opposite, shuffling and crunching it's way through the food provided. It was too dark for photographs but great views. Then a second bear appeared and also investigated the food stashes. It eventually moved off to the right and was seen again foraging around the wet meadows behind our hide.
Wild Brown Bear Lodge
We left around 10.00 stopping off at the lake on the outskirts of Lapinlahti. We saw the first of few House sparrow, Siskin and Greenfinch. There was a garden with some sculptures made from natural materials.
We made a few stops along the way seeing a flock of Cranes, Tree Pipits, Yellow Wagtails and an Osprey which flew across the road and then spent some time quartering and hovering over the wood.
We arrived at the Lodge around 2.00pm checked in and then went out for a walk before getting back for 4.00pm dinner. We wandered along the track and then took a side track where we heard and then saw a flock of waxwings, many of them juveniles. On the road there were some interesting fungi. There were also Brown Hawker and Common Aeshna flying around.
We returned to the Lodge for Soup, Salmon and mashed Potato with an interesting selection of side dishes which included olives, tomatoes, beetroot, and cucumber, followed by fruit for desert.
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