Humbold Penguins and Inca terns

A very early start found us meeting Claudio, from Fantastico Sur, packing into a van and heading towards the coast on a guided trip for our 9th species of penguin. A short stop gave us a Chilean Flicker and then we drove on to Cachuga, a very smart seaside area. We climbed out of the van and there was pair of Rufous-tailed Plant Cutters on the wires. Claudio pished, chilean style, and the reaction was amazing, with Thorn-tailed Rayaditos, Plain-mantled Tit Spinetails, Tufted Tit Tyrants, White-crested Elaenias, Common Diuca Finch, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Shiny Cowbird, Gray-headed Sierra Finch, Austral Blackbird and a Fire-eyed Diucon flicked around the gardens. While we were looking every which way to try and catch sight of everything a Giant Hummingbird flew over. We had good views when one settled on the top of a tree. An Austral Pygmy Owl called and was eventually found in the pine trees, being hassled by Austral Blackbirds and other small birds.

Wire-crested Eleanias

 Common Duica Finch

 Fire-eyed Duicon

Moving down to the beach we had Blue and White Swallows swooping down for insects, Hudsonian Whimbrel, Kelp Gulls with a Franklin's Gull and, on an off-shore island, Humboldt Penguins (No 9)

Peruvian Pelican

Peruvian Pelicans flew through with a Peruvian Booby and on the rocks there was a Marine Otter playing in the seaweed. We also had excellent views of Seaside Cinclodes 



Seaside Cinclodes

We moved on to some large pools next to a sulphuric acid factory where we saw a nice selection of birds icluding Lake Duck, Chiloe wigeon, Cinnamon Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Red-gartered, Red-fronted and White-winged Coots, a pair of Coscoroba Swans, Black-necked stilt, American Oystercatcher and Southern Lapwing. In the reeds we had Many-coloured Rush-tyrant which proved very elusive for some of us, as well as Yellow-winged Blackbird, Spectacled Tyrant and Grassland Yellow-finch. We also had excellent views of White-eared Grebe.

White-eared Grebe

We stopped for a comfort stop and were lucky to find Grey Gulls in the bay, while American Kestrels hunted overhead. We moved on in search of one of our main targets, Inca Tern. These breed on a small rock along the coast but we were unfortunate to coincide with a marathan race that cost us a lot of time as our driver, Hector, tried to avoid the police blocks. Claudio and Hector talked our way past one of these by explaining that we were official foreign photographers and the next checkpoint saw us being driven past with Hector confidently announcing 'Photographia, photographia' to the bemused police man.

The Inca terns were flying round the rocks giving great views. We were also lucky to see Red-legged and Guanay Cormorants, Peruvian Pelicans and a Peruvian Booby.

Inca Tern

The delays caused by avoiding the marathon meant that we had run out of time but Claudio managed to fit in a quick visit to a small reed patch on a river where we had much better views of Many-coloured rush tyrant as well as a small flock of Skimmers and Franklin's Gulls before we had to rush back to the hotel to collect our luggage and head for the airport. 

A very nice introduction to Chilean Birding.

Skimmers











Homeward Bound

This morning was again calm, warm and sunny as we nosed our way into Stanley Harbour. We experienced our last zodiac ride and disembarked for a quick trot round the souvenir shops before we had to board the bus for the hour's ride to Mount Pleasant Airport. On the way we had a potted history and some interesting facts from our guide.

Our luggage was waiting and we joined the queue that would see us returning home via Punte Arenas and Santiago. 

Final day in the Falklands

Another beautiful morning saw us anchored off Carcass island. We had a choice of activities, either a zodiac ride to the right hand part of the bay and then a 4 km walk back or a direct zodiac to the landing stage on the island. Mike took the walk but the rest of us decided to have a more relaxed time walking along the beach where we had brilliant views of Cobb's wren as well as Striated and Southern Caracara, Long-tailed Meadow-larks, Black-chinned Siskins, Sedge Wrens, Seaside Cinclodes, Falklands Steamer Duck, both oystercatchers and Rock Shag.

We managed to fit in a visit to the local farmhouse where there was a very welcome cup of tea and the most amazing spread of cakes before a lingering return to the boat.

Our last visit was almost the best. It was a short cruise in the warm sunshine to Saunders Island. We were without thermals and down to t-shirts and shorts under the waterproof pants and life jackets. Although covered in slippery seaweed, this was a relatively easy landing onto the sandy shore at The Neck, followed by a gentle stroll across to the Gentoo penguin rookery with lots of chicks sheltering from the heat in their parent's shadow. There was a small group of King Penguins (No 8). They ranged from an 11 month old just moulting from it's brown fluff to 3 adults incubating eggs on they're feet.

King Penguins

Dolphin Gull

Rockhopper Penguin

Magellanic Oystercatcher

Falklands Steamer Duck

After admiring the King penguins and taking lots of pictures we wandered on towards the water's edge where Gentoo penguins were feeding as well as Dolphin gulls, a family party of Magellanic Oystercatchers and Falklands Steamer Ducks. The urge was too strong and I removed my boots and socks and paddled in the surf, giving some of the Gentoo a very surprising sight as they came into land.

At one end of the beach, near the rocks, there was a Rockhopper rookery and  a group of Rockhopper penguins wriggled and splashed in the surf. Very reluctantly we dragged ourselves away, admiring the self-catering accomodation that is available, and returned to the ship. Last ones off !

Self-catering Accomodation

We were all invited to a celebratory drink with Delphine, the Captain and other members of staff in the Lounge, then a final lovely meal and packing ready for disembarkation tomorrow.

Islands of the Falklands

This morning we arrived in the west falklands at an island called Steeple Jason, one that had never been visited before by any of the staff members but one. The landing was a bit tricky as we had to clamber up across the rocks before setting off around the island to the legendary Black-browed Albatross colony. On the way we passed Tussocbirds and Austral Thrushes foraging for food and a Gentoo colony which had the first small chicks we had seen.

Steeple Jason

Austral Thrush

Tussockbird

Gentoo Colony

On the way we encountered some very inquisitive Striated Caracara, known as Johnny Rook to the locals, who attacked anything left on the ground.We also saw Long-tailed Meadowlark, Falklands skua, Black-throated Finch.

Striated Caracara (Johnny Rook)

After about a mile we arrived at the albatross colony which went on along the beach edge as far as the eye can see. Interspersed among the albatross were Rockhopper penguins, number 7 on our list for the trip.

Black-browed Albatross Colony

Rockhopper penguin

We began to see the first flowering plants since we left Ushuaia

In the afternoon we sailed for West Point Island which was another albatross/rockhopper colony. On the way we were accompanied by some Peale's Dolphins and as we arrived we were greeted by a pod of about 50 Commerson's Dolphins which delighted everyone for hours. They seemed to really enjoy frolicing round the boat and chasing the zodiacs.

Peele's Dolphin

Commerson's Dolphin

The trees around the settlement held lots of black-chinned siskin and the smell of gorse reminded us of Dungeness.

Black-chinned Siskin

On shore we also saw Ashy-headed Goose, Falklands pipit, Falklands Grass Wren, Night Heron, Kelp Goose and Upland goose, the day ended with a Bar-B-Q at the back of the boat.

Falklands Pipit

Night Heron

A day on the ocean

Today the weather deteriorated with wind speeds up to 50 knotts (force 8). The ship rocked and rolled but the sun came out and we were all on our feet. Over the day we saw lots of Thin-billed Prions, Antarctic Petrels, Wilson's petrels, and southern Giant Petrels. We also saw Wandering, Southern and Northern Royal and Grey-headed Albatrosses, as well as the ever present Cape petrels.

Luckily the wind and waves moderated during the late afternoon and things are much more manageable.

We are heading for a small island to the north of the Falklands called Steeple Jason for tomorrow morning so hoping the weather and waves calm right down.