Last Day and Home

Our last morning in Namibia. Our main target for the day was Rockrunner so we made a walk up and along the Mountain Trail at first light. There was little to be heard or seen at first but a short burst of tape quickly induced several birds into song with one male coming to within about 30m to investigate. Having had this success we made our way down for breakfast with a Pearl-spotted Owlet, Rosy-faced Lovebirds, White-browed and Kalahari scrub-robins, Mariqua Sunbirds, several Grey-backed Camaroptera and Brown-crowned Tchagra en route. We checked out but made a short stop along the entrance track which amazingly produced two Hartlaub’s Spurfowl crossing the road and wandering around in the roadside scrub.

We then made the three hour drive to Windhoek with little time for further birding although we did see several White-backed Vultures, a Black-chested Snake-eagle and lots of Little Swifts from the car. Several hillsides were on fire and appeared to be of natural origin. On arrival at Windhoek we were told that our departure was delayed, apparently due to high runway temperatures (33.6C) and this resulted in a hectic and fraught transfer at Johannesburg Airport but we eventually made the flight on time and arrived via Zurich back at Heathrow at 0800hrs on 7^th. 

Waterberg

A long line of red cliffs shining in the sun. An early morning start and we found rockrunner.

We made a pre-breakfast walk around the campsite and Dik-dik Trail and then the campsite area again after breakfast. We then headed to Waterberg via the Hoba Meteorite and along the D2152 gravel road. We arrived at Waterberg at about 1630 and after checking in we walked part way up the Mountain Trail.

It was fairly quiet at first but our second walk was more productive with good views of one of our target species, Rosy-faced Lovebird, a flock of 13. Common Scimitar-bill, five Black-faced Babblers, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, White Helmet-shrikes, Bru-bru, Ashy Tit, Violet-eared Waxbill, Green-winged Pytilia and over100 Blue Waxbills.

We stopped off at the Hoba Meteorite site where it was extremely hot. There was a bit of activity around the water taps and a small group of Chestnut-backed Finch-lark came in to drink. A pair of Pririt Batis were also seen, There was also a small seepage which proved very attractive to butterflies. As we left Hoba a small group of Greater striped Swallows were seen.

The drive along the D2152 was quite hard work at times but a number of good birds were seen. A mixed flock of Southern White Babbler and Damara Violet Wood-hoopoes flew across the road and Swallow-tailed and Little Bee-eaters were common. A party of Swainson’s Spurfowl, two pairs of Cape Penduline Tit, a Barred Wren-babbler and lots of Groundscraper Thrushes were also seen.

Waterberg

A Red-crested Koorhan, six Ruppell’s Parrot, Monteiro’s Hornbill, Karoo Scrub-robin and Brown-crowned Tchagra were seen on the approach and Rosy-faced Lovebirds, Alpine, Bradfield’s and Little Swifts were seen above the accommodation. Marique and White-bellied Sunbirds and Crimson-breasted Shrikes were drinking around the reception area and Pale-winged Starlings were seen throughout the area.

Damara Dik-dik were feeding on the lawns in the evening and Chacma Baboons and Banded Mongeese were scavenging around the accommodation.

Roy's Camp

Another interesting site with new birds.

The day began with a pre-breakfast walk around the grounds of Lawdons and then a fairly long drive to Roy’s Camp.

The lodge produced two Black-collared Barbets, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, good views of White-fronted Bee-eater, more Yellow-bellied Greenbul, a stunning Orange-breasted Bush-shrike, our only Icterine Warbler of the trip, a Green-capped Eremomela, four Collared Sunbirds and a flock of 20 Brown Firefinches.

We left Lawdons and between there and the border we saw a Marabou Stork, three Lappet-faced Vultures, four Bateleurs, our only two Bradfield’s Hornbills, ten Magpie Shrikes and a Brown-crowned Tchagra.

Our return into Namibia was made with the minimum of fuss, the staff in the Botswana office even recognizing us from two days earlier and engaging us in very friendly conversation.

As we had a long drive we tried not to stop too often but as we drove through Mahanga we saw Chin-spot Batis and three Pale Flycatcher and a herd of Zebra.

We arrived at Roy’s Camp around mid-afternoon. It was very hot so we chilled for a while before taking a short walk around the grounds. This produced a Bearded Woodpecker, ten Black-faced Babbler, four Yellow-breasted Apalis, two White-browed Scrub-robin, four Carp’s Tits, a Brown-crowned Tchagra, Black-faced and Blue Waxbills and Golden-breasted Buntings.

A vigil over the small waterhole in evening produced a Barn Owl along with Eland, Zebra, Blue Wildebeest, Damara Dik-dik and Steenbock all coming into drink.

River Trip

We were collected at 9.00 in the morning and spent 3 hours on the river seeing hundreds of egrets and herons.

We had made a request for the use of a boat but were not entirely sure what we were going to get. In the event we had a boat to ourselves for eight hours which gave us a four hour trip downriver in the morning, a break for lunch during the heat of the day and a further trip up river in the afternoon. It proved to be yet another superb day.

We shared breakfast with White-browed Robin-chats and Yellow-bellied Greenbuls and then boarded the boat. The morning produced fantastic views of hundreds of herons including well in excess of 100 Black Egrets and Squacoo Herons, a few Little Bitterns, about 40 Openbill Storks, two Lappet-faced Vultures, Water Dikkop, plenty of Chirping Cisticola and a few Luapula Cisticolas (from call and habitat), A few crocodiles were seen and a Cape Clawless Otter appeared close to the boat but was very active and quickly disappeared.

Fish Eagles, Malachite and Pied Kingfishers and White-fronted and Little Bee-eaters and Swamp Boubou were almost constant companions throughout the day.

The lunch break produced Brown-throated Weaver and a very confiding Giant Kingfisher at the restaurant and Bearded Woodpecker, a party of five Retz’s Helmet-shrike, Terrestrial Bulbuls, Arrow-marked and Hartlaub’s Babblers, two Lesser Masked Weavers, four Brown Firefinches and four Collared Sunbirds around Lawdons Camp.

The afternoon trip produced our main target bird with good views of two Pel’s Fishing Owls but we failed to find White-backed Night Heron. Other highlights included two Rufous-bellied Herons, 20 Yellow-billed Storks, 30 White-faced Whistling Ducks, three Comb Ducks, a Rock Pratincole, a few Long-toed Lapwing and a Kittltiz’s Plover, about 40 African Skimmers and ten Collared Pratincoles, Several Crocodiles and a Monitor Lizard were seen at close range and we had great views of several small herds of Hippopotamus, about 30 animals in total.

After dinner a pair of African Wood Owls gave great views just outside our cabin.

Lawdon's in Botswana

We spent the day travelling through the Mahanga Reserve where we saw lots of birds but also lots of different mammals, including hippos.

The first parts of the morning were spent along the trail and by the Popa Falls before we made a short drive to Mahanga. We drove the 2WD track (barely in parts before entering Botswana and heading for Lawdons Camp.

Popa Falls

New or interesting birds around the camp were two Fish Eagle, Rock Pratincole on the rocks again, Emerald-spotted Wood-dove, Southern Carnine Bee-eater, a pair of colourful Black-collared Barbet, a pair of African Pied Wagtail, a dozen or so Hartlaub’s Babbler, a pair of Collared Sunbird and a party of Brown Firefinches.

A couple of unexpected birds were also seen. The first was a pair of what appeared to be Tropical Boubou. Popa is outside the range give by Sinclair but there seemed little doubt that this was what they were (the underparts were clearly a rich cream in colour) and a group of four Violet-backed Starlings were seen outside our accommodation.

Dragonflies

Mahanga

This reserve was excellent if a bit tough going in places. Despite being allowed to wander on foot we still did most of our birding from the comfort of the car. Waterbirds were in abundance and included Rufous-bellied Heron, Goliath Heron, Hamerkop, African Openbill along with Gabar Goshawk, Lizard Buzzard, Fish Eagle, Tawny Eagle and Martial Eagle. Black Crake was seen at the picnic spot and four Wattled Cranes were visible from the Giant Baobab. The plains also had White-faced Whistling-ducks, Long-toed Lapwing, African Skimmer, Coppery-tailed Coucal and Southern Carmine Bee-eater,

Mammals are an important feature of this reserve and we managed to see 16 Sable, numerous Red Lechwe, Southern Reedbuck, Waterbuck and Red Hartebeast, Several groups of Hippopotamus were among the pools and about ten Elephant were seen along with Water Buffalo.

Looking across from the “Giant Baobab” a Crocodile and a large Monitor Lizard were seen.

Dragonflies

We departed from Mahanga and headed south towards the border with Botswana. We had little problem passing through and were not charged anything to do so. At the Botswana post the staff were very friendly and seemed almost pleased to see us. Having negotiated the border we drove to Drotsky’s Camp although we ended up staying at Lawdons Camp next door. It was nearly dark when we arrived so we saw very little.

Lawdons Camp is very new (in fact not everything is finished off. The accommodation was excellent but the restaurant area was not finished so we taken by boat to Drotsky’s for breakfasts and evening meals which were very good.

Popa Falls

Much more basic and the electricity failed in the night. The river was close but no hippos.

The morning was spent in the grounds of the lodge and along the bank of the Kavango. We then left the Lodge and headed west along a dirt road to the “sewage” works although we probably never found the best pools and then on another 210km to Popa Falls.

Sarasunga

The grounds and banks of the river were excellent. Two Rufous-bellied Herons, a party of Black-winged Stilts and Wire-tailed Swallows, Rattling Cisticola, Grey-backed Camaroptera and African Yellow White-eye all gave good views along the river whilst the grounds produced Acacia Pied Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide, Kurrichane Thrush, a pair of African Paradise-flycatcher, six Arrow-marked Babblers and several family parties of Hartlaub’s Babbler, several pairs of Swamp Bou-bou, Burchell’s Starling and a pair of Holub’s Golden Weaver,

We then made the short drive to the sewage farm and although we saw we never made it to them as there were a couple of ponds alongside the road and we were a bit wary of leaving the car unattended. As everywhere, there were plenty of interesting birds with numerous Reed Cormorants, a Little Bittern, a pair of Hottentot Teal, a female Southern Pochard, an Osprey and Purple Swamphen calling from deep within the reeds, Waders were plentiful and included Black-winged Stilt, Ruff, four Curlew Sandpipers, a Little Stint, four Marsh Sandpiper and a Turnstone. A Giant Kingfisher and four Pied Kingfishers fed over one the ponds along with Little Bee-eater, Hoopoe, African Pipit and Wattled Starling,

Dragonflies included Orange Emperor, Banded Groundling

Drive

We then began our 210km drive to Popa Falls, Although we tried not to stop too often we still saw Brown Snake-eagle, Bateleur and African Harrier-hawk from the car whilst a stop for lunch about 30km out of Sarasunga was remarkably good, given the heat, with Striped Kingfisher, Bearded Woodpecker, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Southern Black Tit, Amethyst Sunbird, Black-backed Puffback, White Helmet-shrike, African Golden Oriole, Red-headed Weaver and Golden-breasted Bunting all being seen, As we approached Divundu Yellow-billed Kite, Red-faced Mousebird Magpie Shrike were seen,

Popa Falls

We arrived at Popa falls at about 615 so we checked in, sorted out our equipment then walked and scrambled over various streams to the actual “falls”. After a couple of false starts we eventually got into a spot where we could watch the river where six Rock Pratincoles gave superb close up views, a party of three Wattled Cranes and an Osprey flew over. Five Terrestrial Bulbuls and five White-browed Robin-chats were running around our feet and four Yellow-bellied Bulbuls, two Red-breasted Swallows, a pair of African Pied Wagtail amongst the falls, a noisy, family party of Hartlaub’s Babbler and a flocks of African Yellow White-eye, After an excellent steak dinner we returned to our cabins and shortly after an African Wood-owl began calling over our heads. A look outside saw the bird fly off from an overhanging branch.

Sarasunga

This was a really peaceful site with the river Kavanga just outside the grounds and Angola across the river.

We made an enjoyable pre-breakfast drive to Klein Namutoni and onto Did-dik Drive before returning to the camp. After breakfast we made another visit to the waterhole (where my new 500mm camera lens stopped working and then a long drive to Sarasunga arriving with about an hour of daylight left spent in the gardens and along the river. Last few minutes of daylight alongside river.

Klein Namutoni

We probably arrived to early for large numbers of mammals to be drinking but two Giraffe gave good views and a Southern Pochard was seen.

Dik-dik Trail

Soon after entering the drive we found our target species with very close of a dozen or so Damara Dik-diks and a few Black-faced Impala and more Giraffe.

White-backed Vulture was seen at its nest, a Shikra dashed through and a cluster of small birds included Crimson-breasted Shrike, Blue Waxbill and Golden-breasted Bunting.

Namutoni grounds and waterhole

White-backed Vulture, Lanner Falcon and a European Bee-eater were overhead and a pair of Whiskered Tern came in to feed. Ruff and Little Stint were also feeding, White-bellied and Marique Sunbirds were feeding around the car park area, Two parties of Banded Mongoose were feeding unconcerned a few feet away.

This was the first spot where we saw large numbers of dragonflies. Common Orange, Blue Basker, dropwings                         

Drive

As we had a long drive we tried not to stop too often but Cape Vulture, Yellow-billed Kite and Lilac-breasted Roller and Red-faced Mousebird were noted.

Sarasunga

Our brief look around the grounds and river produced Striated Heron, Malachite and Pied Kingfishers, Lesser Honeyguide, Hartlaub’s Babbler, Wire-tailed Swallow and Kurrichane Thrush.

Yellow Mongoose.?????

Etosha - Namutoni

The least 'basic' of all the camps. 2 toilets and twin showers.

The day began with an early morning walk around campsite which produced the family of wood-hoopoes plus Pearl-spotted Owlet, White-browed Scrub Robin and Crombec in the bushes above the camp. We then headed for a next destination at Namutoni with stops at the main waterholes on the way including Goas, Batia, Okerfontein and Kalkuwehl.

Goas

This was a superb spot and we ended up spending several hours here watching the various comings and goings. The highlights were two male Lions which gave superb views and ended losing a stand-off with over 60 Elephants. Tawny Eagle, Bateleur and Lanner Falcon all gave good views and Little Grebes, Cape Teal, Red-billed Duck, Greenshank, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers, three Red-breasted Swallows, were seen.

Batia

The area around Batia produced yet more mammals including a few Red Hartebeest and Black-faced Impala along with Kudu, Giraffe and increasing numbers of Blue Wildebeest. There weren’t that many birds around but we did see an African Marsh Owl which was eventually joined a Tawny Eagle overhead.

Okerfontein

This was also quiet except for fantastic, close-up views of another Black Rhinocerus.

Kalkuwehl

We then made a slightly longer drive and turned off the main road to the Kalkuwehl. We were hoping for Meyer’s Parrot or Leopard but failed on both but were surprised to find a party of Black-faced Babbler. A party of Swainson’s Spurfowl also came out the scrub for a drink and the first Blue Waxbills of the trip were seen along with more Green-winged Pytilia, A couple of Giraffes and then a large herd of Zebra were drinking.

The short drive from here to Namutoni produced another Lanner Falcon and Pale Flycatcher and good views of a Steenbok.

We arrived at Namutoni Lodge and were taken to our very plush accommodation. We had a bit of light left so we headed for the waterhole and witnessed a huge roost of Red-billed Quelea and two attendant Red-necked Falcons plucking them out of the air with ease. Common Sandpipers were feeding along the waters edge,

Halali waterholes

Walk around woodland in camp in morning then drive back out to Rietfontein, Salvadora, Suaeda and Charitsaub returning back quite early. Look around campsite in afternoon then up to waterhole before dinner.

Campsite

An early morning walk through the Mopane woodland proved fairly quiet but in mid-afternoon we did find a family party of four Damara Violet Wood-hoopoe and were shown two roosting Barn Owls. Grey-backed Camaroptera, Groundscraper Thrush, Red-billed Buffalo-weaver, Golden-breasted Bunting and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting were also seen and hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse came into drink in the evening.

A late afternoon till dark watch of the waterhole was very productive with two young male Lions, three Black Rhinoceros, 13 Elephants, an African Wild Cat and a Slender Mongoose. A Cape Fox was seen after dinner but we were unable to find any Honey Badgers. Tree Squirrel (Smith’s Bush Squirrel) were also running around the camp site.

Our first waterhole was the short drive back to Rietfontein with four Secretary Birds, a Bateleur, a Black-shouldered Kite, four Greater Kestrel, two Double-banded Coursers, six Kori Bustards, four Northern Black Koorhan, lots of Grey-backed Finch-lark and Spike-heeled Lark on route,

A Yellow Mongoose also gave great views.

Reitfontein

Our “quick” look at the waterhole turned into a more prolonged stay as a female lion was showing right out in the open and very close to the assembled audience. It then became apparent that there were another seven lions sleeping under an acacia bush close by. There were plenty of other mammals drinking with lots of Kudu, several Giraffe and Red Hartebeest and six Elephants.

There were also lots of birds with Martial Eagle, African Hawk-eagle, five Tawny Eagles, a Steppe Eagle, two Bateleur, a few Namaqua Sandgrouse, Hoopoe, two Red-breasted Swallows, two Groundscraper Thrushes and about 100 Chestnut-backed Finch-larks.

Salvadora

Our next stop was fairly quiet with just Cape Teal new for the trip and hundreds of Springboks coming in to drink.

Charitsaub

Two White-headed Vultures flew over and a Secretary Bird, several Kori Bustards and a Lilac-breasted Roller were seen.

Suaeda

This was also quiet although a male Northern Black Koorhan walked to within a few feet of the car and a pair of Pied Crows used the car as a perch.

Etosha - Halali

Much quieter and drier. Upgraded to a 'bush chalet' with jacuzzi.

We made an early start in order to get to Okondeka and back before breakfast and then checked the waterhole after breakfast. We then drove to Halali via the waterholes at Nebrowni, Gemsbokvlakte, Olifantsbos, Aus, Charitsaub and Rietfontein arriving at Halali at about 1845hrs. After arrival at the lodge we visited the waterhole before and after dinner.

Okondeka

We failed to see the large pride of Lions reported the previous day but had good views of the expected large game, including several hundred Blue Wildebeest. Two Tawny Eagles, Secretary Bird, Three-banded Plover, Hoopoe, more of the same larks and Southern Anteater Chat were all seen.

Okaukuejo

A check around the camp and waterhole produced a Marabou Stork, three Cape Vulture, a superb Pygmy Falcon just outside the main gate, thousands of Namaqua Sandgrouse coming in to drink, Common Scimitarbill, Bru-bru, Ashy Tit and lots of Burchell’s Starlings.

Newbrowni

There were lots of Namaqua Dove, Red-capped Lark and Red-headed Finches in the bushes and around the waterhole and two parties of Elephants came in to drink and bathe.

Gemsbokvlakte

Two Burchell’s Coursers and lots of Grey-backed Sparrow-lark were seen on the approach to the waterhole where a large herd of Elephants were holding sway with lots of Oryx, Zebra and Springbok looking on.

Olifantsbos

The waterhole had more Red Hartebeest and Black-faced Impala and a couple of Elephants and the bushes around the picnic site were full of Black-faced Waxbill, Green-winged Pytilia and Violet-eared Waxbills.

Aus

This was very quiet except for very close views of a Gabar Goshawk’

Charitsaub

A Kori Bustard was stalking around the waterhole whilst several Northern Black Koorhans and a Lilac-breasted Roller were also nearby but the highlight was a Lioness laying, partially hidden among the rushes.

Rietfontein

It was starting to get quite late by the time we reached here so only a short stop was made during which 12 Kori Bustard and African Jacana were seen,

The drive from here to Halali produced two Secretary Birds and yet more Kori Bustards and Northern Black Koorhans.

Halali

By the time we had checked in and sorted ourselves there was only a little time before dark so we made a quick dash to the waterhole where we saw about 20 Elephants and three Black Rhinoceros. Hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse came in to drink and several Southern White-crowned Shrikes were seen around the camp.

Okakeuja waterholes

The morning was spent around the camp and waterhole and then a slow drive out to Okondeka in afternoon. We watched the waterhole in the evening.

Okaukeujo produced Marabou, Rufous-cheeked Nightjar, Acacia Pied Barbet, Tinkling Cisticola near the filling station, Pririt Batis, Ashy Tit, several White-bellied Sunbird, a nesting Bru-bru and Burchell’s Starling, After a quiet start for mammals at the waterhole there were hundreds of animals from mid-morning including Blue Wildebeest and Black-faced Impala, The evening visit produced two White (one baby) and seven Black Rhinoceros.

The drive to Okondeka proved a fairly slow affair with huge numbers of lark to sort through and eventually producing Pink-billed Lark amongst the hoards of Red-capped Larks, Spike-heeled Lark, Grey-backed Sparrow-lark and a few Sabota Lark. Raptors were also in evidence with a nesting Lappet-faced Vulture, Bateleur, two Tawny Eagle, stunning views of Secretary Bird and Greater Kestrel. Northern Black Koorhans (15) showed brilliantly as the day cooled and Double-banded Courser, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Lilac-breasted Roller, Southern Ant-eater Chat, Rufous-eared Warbler and Desert Cisticola were all seen.

Yellow Mongeese showed well along with lots of Oryx, Springbok, Zebra and Giraffe.

Etosha - Okakeujo

A lovely waterhole, birds everywhere and a great chalet.

The morning was spent around the Hobatere Lodge  but we were unable to walk in the hills due to the presence of Lions so we did not see Hartlaub’s Francolin. We then drove to Okaukuejo from 1100am arriving at Andersson Gate at 1810 via some D-roads. A pre-dinner look at the waterhole and then again after dinner.

Hobatere
Breakfast at the lodge was served in an open fronted verandah area with a briliant feeding station and water feature just yards from the steps. A very bold hornbill hopped among the dirty dishes taking advantage of any leftovers. Two Ruppell’s Parrot flew in and came down to dring amog the Bare-faced Babblers, finches and Vape Glossy Starlings. A Congo Rope Squirrel worked it's way along a branch to some seeds in a feeding bowl.

We took a walk round the grounds of the lodge before leaving, bumping into a party of Orange River Francolin, some very tame Bare-faced Babblers, a Pearl-spotted Owlet, a Cardinal Woodpecker, Ashy Tit, lots of Dusky Sunbird, Southern White-tailed Shrike and Black-throated Canary and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. Large numbers of Namaqua Sandgrouse came in to drink at the waterhole along with Red-headed Finch, large numbers of Quelea and Lark-like Buntings at the waterhole.

We were delighted to see two Lions walkinh along the back of the waterhole and parties of Eland, Oryx and Giraffe were seen in the distance while parties of Kudu and Springbok came in to drink.

More Striped Tree (Congo Rope) Squirrels were seen in the grounds and the colourful Namibian Rock Agama and Flap-necked Chameleon were a good start to our reptile list.

We drove slowly out of the lodge stopping for two parties of White-tailed Shrikes along with Cape Vulture, Black-chested Snake-eagle, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Crombec, a party of White Helmet shrike and more, closer views of several Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra.

We left around 11.am to drive quickly to Etosha but several stops, including one between Kamanjab and Outjo which produced Common Scimitar-bill and another party of White-tailed Shrikes, meant that the time just trickled away. We decided to take a short cut along gravel roads which was very hot, limiting the bird activity, although we saw plenty of Sabota Lark and Scaly-fronted Weaver. We also saw some large termite mounds, mostly built up against a tree trunk.

As we entered Etosha we had Kori Bustard and a very close Red-crested Koorhan and we started to see Springboks and Zebras in the large numbers we were going to become used to. Southern Ground Squirrel also began to appear.

The evening visits to Okaukuejo waterhole produced our first Elephants and three Black Rhinoceros along with Giraffe and Black-backed Jackal. Sociable Weavers were nesting around the viewing area, 

Hobatere

We spent the morning birding around the grounds of Immanuelle Lodge before heading off on the long drive to Hobatere. As it was our first day we had to make very frequent stops to look at birds and mammals and we eventually arrived with about 30 minutes of light left – just enough time to visit the waterhole. After dinner we went on a 90 minute night drive.

Getting up at first light, I chose to take a dip in the swimming pool but found it difficult to enjoy as there were so many birds around in the plants, bushes and trees.

Immanuel Lodge gave us an excellent introduction to the commoner birds of Namibia with good views of Monteiro’s Hornbill, Acacia Pied Barbet, Kalahari Scrub-robin, Short-toed Rock Thrush, Long-billed Crombec, Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler, Barred Wren-babbler, Chat and Marico Flycatchers, Pririt Batis, Ashy Tit, Scarlet-chested and Marique Sunbirds, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Bru-bru, Black-faced Waxbill, Violet-eared Waxbill and the first of many White-browed Sparrow-weaver. An African Dormouse was also seen.

The long drive to Hobatere produced Lappet-faced Vulture, Black-headed Snake-eagle, Brown Snake-eagle, Dark Chanting Goshawk, lots of Pale Chanting Goshawks, a Little Sparrowhawk, Ruppell’s Parrot at the crossroads at Kamanjab, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, a party of Southern Pied Babblers, Damara Hornbill, Pearl-breasted Swallow and Chat Flycatcher.

Chacma Baboons were seen along the B1 and Warthogs were frequent between Outjo and Kamanjab. Giraffe and Slender Mongoose were also seen.

It was a 17km drive into Hobatere was on an unpaved road through wooded areas with several stops for birds. We managed a brief look round before dinner seeing Brown Snake-eagle, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Groundscraper Thrush, Meve’s Starling and close views of Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra.

The night drive was excellent with a guide and driver using high powered lamps to spot eye-shine and movement. They avoided the antelope species as they can be spooked by the lights. We had our first Kori Bustard, Spotted Thick-knee, Crowned Lapwing and Rufous-cheeked Nightjar. Our driver stopped and showed us one sitting in the track in the headlights. We were all asked to keep our torch lights on the bird and he got down and slowly approached the bird, stretching out his hand and slowly inching closer. A sudden dart and the bird was in the hand giving amazing views.  Added to this we had great views of two Bat-eared Fox, a Small-spotted Genet, several Black-backed Jackals, four African Wildcats, a Lioness, a Scrub Hare, a Chameleon and brief views of South African Porcupine. A brilliant evening.

Namibia - Immanuelle Lodge

We departed Heathrow at 1905hrs and flew with Lufthansa to Frankfurt and then onto Johannesburg where we arrived on time at 0850hrs. We had a couple of hours to kill so we had a meal and watched goings on outside and beginning our list with Sacred Ibis, Black-winged Kite, Grey-headed Gull, Cape Wagtail and Cape Sparrow. We then flew with SAS arriving in Windhoek at 1520hrs.

Passport control was slow but painless and we eventually picked up our hire car, a VW Golf. We had originally picked one with air conditioning and this proved the right option. We had problems with getting cash as the hole in the wall was not working and the Bureau de Change would not take our cards! The easiest places to get cash seemed to be at the major garages which often had an ATM with clear signs to this effect.

Whilst loading the car and filling out final paperwork we saw Augur Buzzard, Bradfield’s Swift, African Cliff Swallow, Burchell’s Starling and Familiar Chat.

We then headed for our accommodation at Immanuel Lodge north of Windhoek but managed a couple of roadside stops and a longer stop at Avis Dam staying there until dusk.

Black-winged Kite and Desert Cisticola were seen from the roadside and our stop at Avis Dam produced Blacksmith’s Plover, Three-banded Plover, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Purple Roller, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, African Palm Swift, Little Swift, African Pipit, Kalahari Scrub-robin, Short-toed Rock-thrush, Pririt Batis and Green-winged Pytilia.

A most beautiful introduction to a new country.

Morocco Bound

Tomorow morning I shall be setting off to visit Morocco for the third time. This time we are heading north with the mail objective to see Marsh Owls in the Merga Jerga Marsh but looking out for lots of other birds that we don't see here. I am looking forward to the food and the weather, hopefully some sun and warmth.