An early get up and quick breakfast before we went for our last safari into the park. Our guide and driver were very friendly and tried really hard to find us lions, especially the ones with cubs but all we could find were pug marks, and we did hear one roaring. We drove round route 2 and spent a lot more time stopping and looking at some of the smaller birds as well as one or two larger ones. We saw Small Minivet, White-fronted Minivet and wood shrike as well as prinias. Our guide managed to wangle us a view of a male lion resting up before we returned to the lodge, late. We had a clean up, packed, ate a brunch before saying a sad farewell to Lokesh's really friendly relatives and thenstaff of the Gir Birding Lodge.
We had a 5 1/2 hour drive with just a quick loo and tea break. This was definitely the worst loo of the entire trip, with green slime around the leaking taps, cracked and dirty foot pads and a pedestal toilet I didn't dare explore. The chai was lovely but the state of the cups was real cause for concern.
We arrived at Velavador in time to take a short drive into the reserve and saw several herds of Blackbuck, a mongoose and some Sambar. We also went up a tower and watched hundreds of Montegue's, Pallid and Marsh Harriers come into roost. There was also a tree full of Indian Pond Heron and a Purple Heron flew by.
We drove back to the Lodge, booked in and settled into our very luxurious rooms.
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Sunday, 1 December 2013
India - Day 9 - Gir forest. Route 1 am, Route 5 pm
6.00 o'clock breakfast for a 6.30 safari. This time we were on route 1 which seemed to skirt the forest edge more. We saw more Samba, Spotted deer. Lots of plum-headed parakeets, we drove through a village and past several herds of cows. We also had Black-rumped Flameback, Langour monkey, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher, White-eyed Buzzard and Indian Scops Owl but no lions.
Back at the Lodge we took a leisurely walk round the orchard, with Yellow-wattled Lapwing, little egret and Peacock. We also found some more butterflies.
After lunch, with Coppersmith Barbets, Greenish warbler and Bulbuls in the Banyan tree, we did some verandah birding with Black Redstart, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Tinkerbird and Common Iora flitting around in the Mango trees.
The afternoon safari was a bit of a disappointment as we didn't see very much, other than more Spotted and Sambar deer, a couple of Stone Curlew and some plum-headed parakeets and we did meet some jeeps coming the other way with big grins on their faces, they had just seen 2 females and 3 cubs but we weren't allowed to go as it wasn't on our route. The driver and guide would lose their licence if they left the prescribed route, VERY frustrating! The route, though was much more open and pleasant, although very dusty.
Back to the lodge for dinner and an early night before our last safari in the morning.
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Back at the Lodge we took a leisurely walk round the orchard, with Yellow-wattled Lapwing, little egret and Peacock. We also found some more butterflies.
After lunch, with Coppersmith Barbets, Greenish warbler and Bulbuls in the Banyan tree, we did some verandah birding with Black Redstart, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Tinkerbird and Common Iora flitting around in the Mango trees.
The afternoon safari was a bit of a disappointment as we didn't see very much, other than more Spotted and Sambar deer, a couple of Stone Curlew and some plum-headed parakeets and we did meet some jeeps coming the other way with big grins on their faces, they had just seen 2 females and 3 cubs but we weren't allowed to go as it wasn't on our route. The driver and guide would lose their licence if they left the prescribed route, VERY frustrating! The route, though was much more open and pleasant, although very dusty.
Back to the lodge for dinner and an early night before our last safari in the morning.
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India -Gujarat - Leopard and Lions
An early morning breakfast at 6.00am before loading up the Gypsy and setting off for Gir Lion Park. There is a fair amount of paperwork to be filled in and 1 person has to carry I passport, as well as sorting out camera fees before hand. 600 IRs per camera, per drive!
The light was coming up as we entered and we were soon driving along the rutty, dusty forest trails looking for birds and animals. Our first sighting was Nilgai and Chittal before a real surprise. As we drove along a head was spotted - a lion? No, a leopard! It sat and looked at us for while in the golden morning light before strolling off, as we waited it re-appeared and crossed the road before melting away into the trees.
During the rest of the drive we kept an eye out for lion but no luck. We did see Painted sandgrouse, both kingfishers, plus......
We returned to the lodge for 9.00 am, had a nice cup of Marsala chai before setting off for a walk along the river. We had several birds incl munia, rose finch, etc.
After lunch we had a leisurely lounge on the veranda before setting off for our afternoon game drive. We saw 3 male lions, one chewing on the remains of a cow, 2 lazing about by the side of the road, with attendants making sure they weren't harmed! We also saw a crocodile, wagtails, and had a very unusual and rough crossing of a dam.
Back for dinner with fish caught by Lokash's brother.
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The light was coming up as we entered and we were soon driving along the rutty, dusty forest trails looking for birds and animals. Our first sighting was Nilgai and Chittal before a real surprise. As we drove along a head was spotted - a lion? No, a leopard! It sat and looked at us for while in the golden morning light before strolling off, as we waited it re-appeared and crossed the road before melting away into the trees.
During the rest of the drive we kept an eye out for lion but no luck. We did see Painted sandgrouse, both kingfishers, plus......
We returned to the lodge for 9.00 am, had a nice cup of Marsala chai before setting off for a walk along the river. We had several birds incl munia, rose finch, etc.
After lunch we had a leisurely lounge on the veranda before setting off for our afternoon game drive. We saw 3 male lions, one chewing on the remains of a cow, 2 lazing about by the side of the road, with attendants making sure they weren't harmed! We also saw a crocodile, wagtails, and had a very unusual and rough crossing of a dam.
Back for dinner with fish caught by Lokash's brother.
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Crab Plovers and on to Gir Lion Sanctuary
A slightly later 'American' style breakfast of cornflakes, jammy toast and tea or coffee and we were ready for our next adventure. Packing up the car we then drove towards the Marine Wildlife Sanctuary but a few KMs on as the tide wasn't right until later. A fortuitous stop to check some cranes, turned out to be Demoiselles Cranes flying over to a creek. As we walked out to see if we could see them better we found Malabar Larks, short-toed larks .... On a pool there were Black-winged stilts, Red-wattled Lapwing ....and as we scanned for cranes a party of four Grey Mongoose came out and poked about before scuttling off. In the bushes a group of White-eyes twittered about, flying down into the cotton bushes.
We drove back to the reserve, sorted out the paperwork and then drove on to the area for Crab Plovers, which don't appear until the tide is about 2 hours down. The area is a vast sandy beach with dark, rocky coral 'reefs' with shallow and deeper pools and channels, where the Crab Plovers were feeding. Along with them were Great White Egrets, Reef Herons, Redshank, Greenshank, Lesser and Greater Sandplovers and eventually a Broad-billed Sandpiper. Among the pools Lokash found a Lizard fish, some crabs and several shells. With very wet feet we returned to the bus for the drive to Sassingir.
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We drove back to the reserve, sorted out the paperwork and then drove on to the area for Crab Plovers, which don't appear until the tide is about 2 hours down. The area is a vast sandy beach with dark, rocky coral 'reefs' with shallow and deeper pools and channels, where the Crab Plovers were feeding. Along with them were Great White Egrets, Reef Herons, Redshank, Greenshank, Lesser and Greater Sandplovers and eventually a Broad-billed Sandpiper. Among the pools Lokash found a Lizard fish, some crabs and several shells. With very wet feet we returned to the bus for the drive to Sassingir.
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Drive to Jamnegar
6.30 breakfast for. 7.00 ish start on the long drive to Jammegar. We had a tea break on the way and continue to be in awe do the Indian driver as he negotiates cows, dogs, bikes, motorbikes, tuktuks and lorries which all seem to be doing their own thing. The route goes through lots of villages and it is interesting to get a snapshot as we pass through.
Arriving at the Hotel President in Jamnegar we settled in and had lunch before we set off for the Kidjyah Bird Sanctuary. We drove along the tracks and stopped for a walk along a brick path where Lokash found a Booted eagle sitting on a branch and we also saw Paradise flycatcher, Golden Oriole, White-throated Kingfisher, Coucal and Darter among others.
We drove further along to 3 tower hides where we could look out across a huge area of lagoons, reeds and bushes with hundreds of birds including White painted stork, Pelican, Sacred Ibis, and lots of duck.
The driver flushed a Wild cat which shot across the track and then re-appeared behind me and Carol found another one out in the grassy area. We also had Nilgai and Wild Boar. A drive round to the other side of the reserve and we had hundreds of crane flighting in and Paddyfield Warbler, Clamorous Reed Warbler and Bluethroat in the greenery below the tower.
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Arriving at the Hotel President in Jamnegar we settled in and had lunch before we set off for the Kidjyah Bird Sanctuary. We drove along the tracks and stopped for a walk along a brick path where Lokash found a Booted eagle sitting on a branch and we also saw Paradise flycatcher, Golden Oriole, White-throated Kingfisher, Coucal and Darter among others.
We drove further along to 3 tower hides where we could look out across a huge area of lagoons, reeds and bushes with hundreds of birds including White painted stork, Pelican, Sacred Ibis, and lots of duck.
The driver flushed a Wild cat which shot across the track and then re-appeared behind me and Carol found another one out in the grassy area. We also had Nilgai and Wild Boar. A drive round to the other side of the reserve and we had hundreds of crane flighting in and Paddyfield Warbler, Clamorous Reed Warbler and Bluethroat in the greenery below the tower.
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Monday, 25 November 2013
India day 6 - No- one told the birds we were coming
One thing to remember is that the wildlife doesn't know you're coming. An early start, Masala chai and biscuits and we headed for a site for Grey Hypocolious, although no-one had seen any yet this year, the rains had been late and the bushes were only just flowering, no berries for them to feed on. We arrived and walked out across some fields of castor to the favoured spot, but although we gave it over an hour, no luck. We did see at least 2 Marshall's Iora which was a bonus, plus lots of larks, bulbuls, common babbler and grey fronted prinia.
We then headed for an area of dried lake bed and volcanic mounds to look for Red-tailed wheatear, which was found just as we were about to start breakfast. Also floating past was a Montague's Harrier. After breakfast, with chai, we drove round the grasslands seeing Grey Frankolin, lots of common cranes, curlew and larks before returning via a small water trough overflow. Along the bank was a lovely Bluethroat and dropping down to drink were Chestnut-shouldered Petronias. A stop and walk through the scrub and over some volcanic mounds and we were shown an Eagle Owl resting in the shade of a tree. We spent a little time watching and photographing it before heading back to the car.
As we headed back for lunch the guide got a call to say there was a Caracal taken into care, would we like to see it, YES! The poor thing had been in an accident and they were going to help it recover before releasing it back into the wild, sad to see it in a cage but beautiful.
Lunch at the Lodge.
Afternoon return for bustards but again no luck, trying to find 1 of only 15 birds in this vast expanse is very difficult but we gave it a try. We also saw Stolicza's ... Hundreds of larks, stonechat, finishing up with nearly 30 Montague and Pallid Harriers swooping around us as they went to roost in the grasslands.
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We then headed for an area of dried lake bed and volcanic mounds to look for Red-tailed wheatear, which was found just as we were about to start breakfast. Also floating past was a Montague's Harrier. After breakfast, with chai, we drove round the grasslands seeing Grey Frankolin, lots of common cranes, curlew and larks before returning via a small water trough overflow. Along the bank was a lovely Bluethroat and dropping down to drink were Chestnut-shouldered Petronias. A stop and walk through the scrub and over some volcanic mounds and we were shown an Eagle Owl resting in the shade of a tree. We spent a little time watching and photographing it before heading back to the car.
As we headed back for lunch the guide got a call to say there was a Caracal taken into care, would we like to see it, YES! The poor thing had been in an accident and they were going to help it recover before releasing it back into the wild, sad to see it in a cage but beautiful.
Lunch at the Lodge.
Afternoon return for bustards but again no luck, trying to find 1 of only 15 birds in this vast expanse is very difficult but we gave it a try. We also saw Stolicza's ... Hundreds of larks, stonechat, finishing up with nearly 30 Montague and Pallid Harriers swooping around us as they went to roost in the grasslands.
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Sunday, 24 November 2013
India day 5 Lala bustard sanctuary and Fort Mahdev
Chai at 6.15 and we were ready for our 6.30 start to the Lala bustard sanctuary with a focus on seeing Great Indian Bustard. Our first stop was at a high concrete tower where we scanned across the grasslands but only saw a harrier, some wild boar and hundreds of larks. We moved on, stopping for Red-fronted Prinia, Grey-necked Bunting and Grey Francolin before turning off onto a sandy track. We spent some time searching , asking a ranger in a very smart uniform for info and and stopping for a packed breakfast of bread, cheese, banana crisps and chai but no luck. We did see 2 very smart Yellow-wattled Lapwing and thousand more short-toed larks, a Steppe Grey Shrike and Montague's Harrier among other things.
We drove on to another part of the reserve, several miles away and were beginning to slowly search this area when a man came across the grasslands on his bike. It seems he had seen 2 bustards a little way away. We jumped back into the car and followed him but by now the bustards were out of sight. We stood around while the man and his mate searched but again no luck. We did have lots of birds and a few butterflies to look at so we were happy.
After this we returned to the lodge for lunch.
The afternoon safari was to a different area and we were soon watching Marshall's Iora, White-bellied Minivet, Yellow-eyed Babbler and Common Bushrike through the acacia and cacti scrub before we headed further for White-napped tit which we eventually saw. An unexpected sight was a nightjar sitting in the middle of the road.
We arrived back for a cup,of chai, a shower and dinner.
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We drove on to another part of the reserve, several miles away and were beginning to slowly search this area when a man came across the grasslands on his bike. It seems he had seen 2 bustards a little way away. We jumped back into the car and followed him but by now the bustards were out of sight. We stood around while the man and his mate searched but again no luck. We did have lots of birds and a few butterflies to look at so we were happy.
After this we returned to the lodge for lunch.
The afternoon safari was to a different area and we were soon watching Marshall's Iora, White-bellied Minivet, Yellow-eyed Babbler and Common Bushrike through the acacia and cacti scrub before we headed further for White-napped tit which we eventually saw. An unexpected sight was a nightjar sitting in the middle of the road.
We arrived back for a cup,of chai, a shower and dinner.
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