Day 7 - 22nd Feb - Tal Chappar

 We were up at 6.30 for breakfast, then out for a drive round the Sanctuary. We loaded the car and went 5 minutes down the road, before turning into the entrance and driving up the track, which had some nice murals. We went through the gates of the visitor centre and then changed vehicles for two open sided jeeps. The sanctuary is an 800+ hectare grassland protected area mainly for Blackbuck. We drove round the tracks stopping for birds and several Wild Boar. It was quite misty first thing but the sun burnt it off and the light improved.

 One of the first birds was a Rufous Treepie and a Spotted Owlet in a tree hole, asleep, near the entrance, then a Black Francolin was seen among the grass tussocks, which then dashed across the track and disappeared. There were also several Grey Francolin heard and seen amongst the grasses. As we drove along we saw some sounders of boar, as well as Stonechats, which were numerous as well as Greater Short-toed Lark, Long-billed Pipit, Crested Lark, Isabelline Shrike, Sparrowhawk, Buzzard, Indian Roller and a Desert Wheatear. 

Spotted Owlet

Indian Roller

Black Francolin

Wild Boar

Long-billed Pipit

Stonechat

Large Grey Babbler

We drove around the far side of the reserve and visited a couple of water holes before making our way back to the entrance. On one stop we had Black-winged kite and then a Great Grey Shrike flew in giving both in the same bush.

Black-winged Kite and Great Grey Shrike

We came back to the hotel for Sean to sort his camera out and then went round the back of the sanctuary to the salt pans. The drive was through narrow, tortuous roads between the houses before coming out into a flat, dry area with some water. Stopping at a reservoir on the edge of town, we had Feruginous, India Spot-billed and Knob-billed Duck, Shoveler, Gadwall, Coot and Lapwing with Little Cormorants on and over the water. There was a noisy group of Great Grey Babbler in a bush. 

Great Grey Babbler

Black-winged Stilts and Red-wattled Lapwing

The outflow from the dam attracted Buffalo, Nilgai and Black Buck as well as various waders. 

Buffalo

Black Buck

Indian Roller

We spent some time scanning across the water and surrounding area, checking out a group of lads playing cricket, and then started walking across the salt pans, stopping for an Indian Roller, to be picked up by the van and driven on round more salt pans scanning and checking out various birds, like Grey Francolin, lark …. before driving  back for lunch.

Lads playing cricket

Salt pans.

Grey Francolin

As we waited for the van we had great views of a Bank Mynah and Brahminy Starling.

After lunch we drove to some wetlands looking for a falcon. There were lots of birds, which we scanned from the side of the road, especially ducks on the sandbars, including Garganey, Shoveler, Bar-headed Goose, Ruff, Pintail. We spent a little time checking out a wagtail as it fed along the shoreline and and then some Cranes flew in and landed at a distance so we chose to drive round to find them. 

As we arrived, there was a mongoose working its way along the bank, it disappeared up the ditch. After parking up we walked along a track, with Alan hanging around behind us. The Mongoose popped its head over the bank and he got a cracking shot of it before joining us as we walked towards the area the cranes were in. On the way we checkout a Thicknee, Black-winged Kite, Pied Bushchat and a Bank Mynah. We also stopped for a group of frogs congregating in the ditch. As we were walking closer to the Cranes we saw three White-necked Storks flying a little way away but they landed out of sight. We managed to scope the Cranes and then made our way back to the van. We spent a bit  of time scanning round the area with a flock of Bar-headed Geese on a small pool and then a Black Francolin appeared on the wall giving great views but too quick for photos.

Small Indian Mongoose

Black-winged Kite

Bar-headed Geese

We came back for dinner at 7.30 then caught up on the log, packed and went to bed.

Day 6 - 21st Feb - Bikaner to Tal Chappar

 21st Sat. Up for 6.30 breakfast with our bags collected ready to leave at 7.00. We were offered Cornflakes, fruit, toast, omelettes and yoghurt with tea or coffee. We took a few pics and then set off for the Jorbeer dump area. As we approached the entrance we could see increasing number of birds in the tree tops, mainly Egyptian vultures and steppe eagles. At the entrance Rambir signed us in and sorted out camera fees etc then we set off around the compound. The place was littered with carcasses and bones with a variety of birds hopping around, including Indian Robin, Hoopoe, Black Drongos and Sparrows. Our first target was Yellow-eyed pigeon which Ranbir picked up fairly quickly, with two walking around under the trees. We managed to get closer before they were flushed by a vulture. In the bush was a Yellow throated sparrow which flew off   We got a bit distracted by a colony of gerbils and spent some time watching and photographing them before setting off again, checking the birds for anything different. Over the hour or so we saw Egyptian, Griffon and, eventually, Cinerous Vultures and Steppe, Imperial and Pallas’ fish eagles. We also had Red-napped Ibis, Red-wattled Lapwing, Hoopoe, Grey-throated Martins, HSp. We left to go back for an ATM but, following a suggestion from Sean, we turned round and went back for another half hour with more of the same.

Leaving the park we headed back into Bikaner, found an ATM, topped up our funds, then went for an abortive attempt to look for a memory card. We wasted an hour driving round the town with no luck before working our way out and heading to Tal Chappar for lunch.

We had a lovely lunch, found our rooms and had a quick sort out before heading back out at 3.30. We spent a bit of time watching a lizard in a tree until Sean joined us then we drove out. A short stop had Yellow-footed Green Pigeons in a fig tree and then we turned off onto a dirt track and had a few short stops before getting out for longer walk and search for the Indian Tree-creeper. 

There were several larks hopping around which turned out to be Rosy Larks along  with noisy parties of Large Grey Babblers. There was a pit full of carcasses with several Cattle Egrets feeding around them, plus a dog. Then we moved a little further and got out and started to walk through the trees checking out the trunks as we went. I went slightly left and scanned about when I saw a bird poking around on a branch which looked very similar to what we were looking for. I called David back to look at it but one of the others called a woodpecker so I thought this might be one so I moved on. A few minutes later the bird flew onto a trunk and we both realised it was the Indian Spotted Creeper. David called the others back and soon we were all watching it.

Walking on we saw Black-rumped Flameback and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, Asian Green Bee-eaters, a Steppe Eagle, among other birds, and several Black Buck.  We finished with a lovely Sunset before walking back to the van and heading back for dinner.

Day 5 - 20th Feb - Desert National Park to Bikaner

 7.00 breakfast then paying up our bar bill, taking photos, packing up the car and we were off on our next leg to Bikaner, via Kichan. We had a brief stop for Steppe Eagle and Chinkara, spotting a Shikra in a tree and then our first stop was back at the spot for Syke’s and Plain Leaf Warblers with no luck. 

We saw Black Redstart (eastern race), Common Babbler, Chiffchaff and Peacock. We turned round and had a brief stop for Steppe Eagle. Next brief stop was for Indian Roller, with a Montegue’s Harrier flying through. There was an interesting Wheatear that was a Variable Wheatear , which we moved a little forward to see and the Roller flew along the top of the ridge, gained height and starting displaying. Another stop saw Bay-backed Shrike, Indian Silverbill and Indian Robin. A last try for Sykes warbler wasn't successful but we did see Lesser Whitehroat and Brenda had a Gerbil dash to its burrow. We then headed on towards Bikaner, picking up a good, fast, tar road.

We stopped for lunch at a very smart looking hotel and restaurant, which also had a mini mart in it with a wide range of touristy stuff. I bought a small elephant and camel. They open up for your earrings, nose rings or whatever you need to store. Lunch was a Masala omelet and a cheese omelet with a shared plate of chips, Mango Lassi and a Coca-cola. It was very nice. Then we set off for the Cranes.

A shout from Sean had us turn around and checking the wires for a White-eyed Buzzard. It gave good views then took off and floated around for a bit, landing briefly, before drifting off out of sight.

We eventually reached Keechan and drove down the lane to the reservoir where we were expecting to see thousands of Cranes, there were three!!! It was a big disappointment. As we waited cranes could be heard and slowly groups appeared, circling round high up in the sky. The numbers grew until there were around 1500 in the air. It was quite a spectacle to watch as they wheeled about, some getting quite low, others way up in the sky, but they never landed, and eventually went off into the distance, never to be seen again. 

Cranes at Kichan

Distant Cranes

We hung around for a while checking out the birds on the ponds, with Teal, Little Grebe, Knob-billed Duck, White-browed Wagtail and hirundines with Pale Crag Martin and Dusky Crag Martin then we drove round to the feeding station to see if there was any idea of where they might be. While we were there we had Red Collared Dove among hundreds of Collared Doves. With a 2 and a half hour drive to the hotel, the decision was made to leave. I was bitterly disappointed, but I should have been much clearer that we wanted to see the ‘spectacle’ .

Red Collared Dove

The drive to the hotel was on dual carriageway roads, so we made good time, arriving at the Hotel. We were greeted by a group of flunkies, one put a red tikka on our forehead, one gave us a row of beads and one brought us a lovely glass of rose water. We checked in and went to our rooms which were amazing, with a bed that was twice as wide as it was long! And a room you could have held a conference in. We gathered downstairs for dinner. We chose our food and drinks and the meal that arrived was delicious. We paid and returned to our rooms, then David and I decided to go onto the terrace to see if there were any bats flying around, or anything in the thermal. A scan round didn't show much beyond dogs, a goat and a cat. Then I found a small rodent hopping among the grasses. We decided to go down and check it out. We gathered torches, thermals and camera and went out, checking it was ok with one of the staff. We walked round to where we thought we had seen the shapes and after a while, managed to locate and see one in the light, but no photos. Scanning round, David found 27 + dotted around so we made way across to see if we could get better views and a picture. Suddenly one popped up in a line of small bushes close to where we were standing and we eventually managed some shots, using a very low torch light and flash on the camera. We were then called in by a young man as they wanted to lock up, so we returned. 

Indian Gerbil

By now it was 12.30 and all I did was a quick wash, change and into bed.

Day 4 - 19th Feb - Desert National Park

After a quick cup of tea we were out at 6.30 with a packed breakfast. It was a longish drive to an area where we were looking for Persian Wheatear.  We parked by a small lake and scanned round while eating a packed breakfast, set out on the bonnet of one of the cars. On the bund was the target bird, a Persian Wheatear.

Along the waters edge were lots of wildfowl, kingfisher and waders. There was also a couple of ancestor stones, but these looked quite new, with the carvings still sharp.

Eagles, etc.  Drive round looking for things, stop for Vagrant Wheatear, Black Redstart, back for lunch.

We went out at 3.30 and spent some time looking for Sykes Warbler so we were later getting to the desert area. It was an odd site with trees and a pathway strewn with rubbish. We did see Black red, eastern, etc. before heading back through desert, looking for cats. 

The drive took us along a valley with various plants and bushes. We saw a Fox but no luck with any cars. We got back around 5.45, and were asked if we would like a camel ride. We agreed and had a short drive into the dunes where there were 4 camels waiting. We climbed on our camels and had a short ride across the dunes where we stopped to admire the sunset. We rode back and David chose to ride back to the camp. Sean also agreed to ride back. We drove back for dinner, meeting the boys as they returned on their camels. An experience that I probably won’t repeat. 

T

After dinner we went and checked out the scorpions and then went for a night walk, but saw nothing so we headed back to bed.

Day 3 - 18th Feb - Desert Natioanl Park

Sonar Desert Camp. We had an early rise for 6.15 breakfast, then a drive to the Desert National Park. It was still dark and quite cool, so I was glad of my fleece. The main target today was Indian Desert Bustard. This bird is highly endangered, with about 50 birds in the park, and the main reason for the trip. As we entered the park, Ranbir went and checked us in and then we started driving the trails, some of which were quite rutty in places. As we went we saw Steppe and Imperial Eagle, Egyptian Vultures, lots of larks, with Short-toed, Desert and Black-crowned Finch-lark as well as Great-grey Shrike, House Sparrow and Grey Francolin. 

Black-crowned Finch-lark

Imperial Eagle

Grey Francolin

As we were watching an Imperial Eagle, I called a raptor coming our way which turned out to be a Great Indian Bustard, followed by 8 more! Ranbir watched them and then turned the car round and drove along until he found where they had landed. The views were great, but a bit too distant, and still quite dark, for decent photos. We watched the nine birds interacting for some time, before finally moving off, looking for other species, especially Cream coloured courser. We had more larks,etc. then  the car slowed up and ahead of us was a male bustard in the undergrowth.  The cars approached fairly close then stopped and we waited for the bird to come out which it did before too long. We had prolonged, excellent views as the bird slowly walked about, pecking and then it found a spot and started displaying. It puffed up its throat feathers, cocked his tail, put his head up and gave a low grunt. After a while, another vehicle came along and pulled up beside us, before moving closer and causing the bird to slowly walk away, we called it a day, turned round and started making our way out and back for lunch. 

Great Indian Bustard

On the way, we had a comfort stop where David found some Crimson Speckled moths and at one stop we had a Spiny Lizard.

Day 3 -pm

We met up at 3.30 and set off for another part of the area, driving around the desert area, stopping for birds and a Desert Fox, which trotted away very purposefully after it saw us.

We had good views of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Egyptian Vultures, Steppe Eagle, Greater Short-toed and Bimaculated Larks among the usual desert birds plus Common Babbler and 2 White-browed Bushchat.

 We drove around until dark, using the thermal to look for mammals, but all we saw were Chinkara, and then came back for dinner at 7.30. We stopped for a scan round and to enjoy the sunset, distracted by a very loud tractor going by with a huge boombox trapped to his seat. 

After dinner DW and I went out with the uv and thermal, looking for Hedgehogs and anything else. We did see something which was probable jirds but not much else.