Etosha - Namutoni

The least 'basic' of all the camps. 2 toilets and twin showers.

The day began with an early morning walk around campsite which produced the family of wood-hoopoes plus Pearl-spotted Owlet, White-browed Scrub Robin and Crombec in the bushes above the camp. We then headed for a next destination at Namutoni with stops at the main waterholes on the way including Goas, Batia, Okerfontein and Kalkuwehl.

Goas

This was a superb spot and we ended up spending several hours here watching the various comings and goings. The highlights were two male Lions which gave superb views and ended losing a stand-off with over 60 Elephants. Tawny Eagle, Bateleur and Lanner Falcon all gave good views and Little Grebes, Cape Teal, Red-billed Duck, Greenshank, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers, three Red-breasted Swallows, were seen.

Batia

The area around Batia produced yet more mammals including a few Red Hartebeest and Black-faced Impala along with Kudu, Giraffe and increasing numbers of Blue Wildebeest. There weren’t that many birds around but we did see an African Marsh Owl which was eventually joined a Tawny Eagle overhead.

Okerfontein

This was also quiet except for fantastic, close-up views of another Black Rhinocerus.

Kalkuwehl

We then made a slightly longer drive and turned off the main road to the Kalkuwehl. We were hoping for Meyer’s Parrot or Leopard but failed on both but were surprised to find a party of Black-faced Babbler. A party of Swainson’s Spurfowl also came out the scrub for a drink and the first Blue Waxbills of the trip were seen along with more Green-winged Pytilia, A couple of Giraffes and then a large herd of Zebra were drinking.

The short drive from here to Namutoni produced another Lanner Falcon and Pale Flycatcher and good views of a Steenbok.

We arrived at Namutoni Lodge and were taken to our very plush accommodation. We had a bit of light left so we headed for the waterhole and witnessed a huge roost of Red-billed Quelea and two attendant Red-necked Falcons plucking them out of the air with ease. Common Sandpipers were feeding along the waters edge,

Halali waterholes

Walk around woodland in camp in morning then drive back out to Rietfontein, Salvadora, Suaeda and Charitsaub returning back quite early. Look around campsite in afternoon then up to waterhole before dinner.

Campsite

An early morning walk through the Mopane woodland proved fairly quiet but in mid-afternoon we did find a family party of four Damara Violet Wood-hoopoe and were shown two roosting Barn Owls. Grey-backed Camaroptera, Groundscraper Thrush, Red-billed Buffalo-weaver, Golden-breasted Bunting and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting were also seen and hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse came into drink in the evening.

A late afternoon till dark watch of the waterhole was very productive with two young male Lions, three Black Rhinoceros, 13 Elephants, an African Wild Cat and a Slender Mongoose. A Cape Fox was seen after dinner but we were unable to find any Honey Badgers. Tree Squirrel (Smith’s Bush Squirrel) were also running around the camp site.

Our first waterhole was the short drive back to Rietfontein with four Secretary Birds, a Bateleur, a Black-shouldered Kite, four Greater Kestrel, two Double-banded Coursers, six Kori Bustards, four Northern Black Koorhan, lots of Grey-backed Finch-lark and Spike-heeled Lark on route,

A Yellow Mongoose also gave great views.

Reitfontein

Our “quick” look at the waterhole turned into a more prolonged stay as a female lion was showing right out in the open and very close to the assembled audience. It then became apparent that there were another seven lions sleeping under an acacia bush close by. There were plenty of other mammals drinking with lots of Kudu, several Giraffe and Red Hartebeest and six Elephants.

There were also lots of birds with Martial Eagle, African Hawk-eagle, five Tawny Eagles, a Steppe Eagle, two Bateleur, a few Namaqua Sandgrouse, Hoopoe, two Red-breasted Swallows, two Groundscraper Thrushes and about 100 Chestnut-backed Finch-larks.

Salvadora

Our next stop was fairly quiet with just Cape Teal new for the trip and hundreds of Springboks coming in to drink.

Charitsaub

Two White-headed Vultures flew over and a Secretary Bird, several Kori Bustards and a Lilac-breasted Roller were seen.

Suaeda

This was also quiet although a male Northern Black Koorhan walked to within a few feet of the car and a pair of Pied Crows used the car as a perch.

Etosha - Halali

Much quieter and drier. Upgraded to a 'bush chalet' with jacuzzi.

We made an early start in order to get to Okondeka and back before breakfast and then checked the waterhole after breakfast. We then drove to Halali via the waterholes at Nebrowni, Gemsbokvlakte, Olifantsbos, Aus, Charitsaub and Rietfontein arriving at Halali at about 1845hrs. After arrival at the lodge we visited the waterhole before and after dinner.

Okondeka

We failed to see the large pride of Lions reported the previous day but had good views of the expected large game, including several hundred Blue Wildebeest. Two Tawny Eagles, Secretary Bird, Three-banded Plover, Hoopoe, more of the same larks and Southern Anteater Chat were all seen.

Okaukuejo

A check around the camp and waterhole produced a Marabou Stork, three Cape Vulture, a superb Pygmy Falcon just outside the main gate, thousands of Namaqua Sandgrouse coming in to drink, Common Scimitarbill, Bru-bru, Ashy Tit and lots of Burchell’s Starlings.

Newbrowni

There were lots of Namaqua Dove, Red-capped Lark and Red-headed Finches in the bushes and around the waterhole and two parties of Elephants came in to drink and bathe.

Gemsbokvlakte

Two Burchell’s Coursers and lots of Grey-backed Sparrow-lark were seen on the approach to the waterhole where a large herd of Elephants were holding sway with lots of Oryx, Zebra and Springbok looking on.

Olifantsbos

The waterhole had more Red Hartebeest and Black-faced Impala and a couple of Elephants and the bushes around the picnic site were full of Black-faced Waxbill, Green-winged Pytilia and Violet-eared Waxbills.

Aus

This was very quiet except for very close views of a Gabar Goshawk’

Charitsaub

A Kori Bustard was stalking around the waterhole whilst several Northern Black Koorhans and a Lilac-breasted Roller were also nearby but the highlight was a Lioness laying, partially hidden among the rushes.

Rietfontein

It was starting to get quite late by the time we reached here so only a short stop was made during which 12 Kori Bustard and African Jacana were seen,

The drive from here to Halali produced two Secretary Birds and yet more Kori Bustards and Northern Black Koorhans.

Halali

By the time we had checked in and sorted ourselves there was only a little time before dark so we made a quick dash to the waterhole where we saw about 20 Elephants and three Black Rhinoceros. Hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse came in to drink and several Southern White-crowned Shrikes were seen around the camp.

Okakeuja waterholes

The morning was spent around the camp and waterhole and then a slow drive out to Okondeka in afternoon. We watched the waterhole in the evening.

Okaukeujo produced Marabou, Rufous-cheeked Nightjar, Acacia Pied Barbet, Tinkling Cisticola near the filling station, Pririt Batis, Ashy Tit, several White-bellied Sunbird, a nesting Bru-bru and Burchell’s Starling, After a quiet start for mammals at the waterhole there were hundreds of animals from mid-morning including Blue Wildebeest and Black-faced Impala, The evening visit produced two White (one baby) and seven Black Rhinoceros.

The drive to Okondeka proved a fairly slow affair with huge numbers of lark to sort through and eventually producing Pink-billed Lark amongst the hoards of Red-capped Larks, Spike-heeled Lark, Grey-backed Sparrow-lark and a few Sabota Lark. Raptors were also in evidence with a nesting Lappet-faced Vulture, Bateleur, two Tawny Eagle, stunning views of Secretary Bird and Greater Kestrel. Northern Black Koorhans (15) showed brilliantly as the day cooled and Double-banded Courser, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Lilac-breasted Roller, Southern Ant-eater Chat, Rufous-eared Warbler and Desert Cisticola were all seen.

Yellow Mongeese showed well along with lots of Oryx, Springbok, Zebra and Giraffe.

Etosha - Okakeujo

A lovely waterhole, birds everywhere and a great chalet.

The morning was spent around the Hobatere Lodge  but we were unable to walk in the hills due to the presence of Lions so we did not see Hartlaub’s Francolin. We then drove to Okaukuejo from 1100am arriving at Andersson Gate at 1810 via some D-roads. A pre-dinner look at the waterhole and then again after dinner.

Hobatere
Breakfast at the lodge was served in an open fronted verandah area with a briliant feeding station and water feature just yards from the steps. A very bold hornbill hopped among the dirty dishes taking advantage of any leftovers. Two Ruppell’s Parrot flew in and came down to dring amog the Bare-faced Babblers, finches and Vape Glossy Starlings. A Congo Rope Squirrel worked it's way along a branch to some seeds in a feeding bowl.

We took a walk round the grounds of the lodge before leaving, bumping into a party of Orange River Francolin, some very tame Bare-faced Babblers, a Pearl-spotted Owlet, a Cardinal Woodpecker, Ashy Tit, lots of Dusky Sunbird, Southern White-tailed Shrike and Black-throated Canary and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. Large numbers of Namaqua Sandgrouse came in to drink at the waterhole along with Red-headed Finch, large numbers of Quelea and Lark-like Buntings at the waterhole.

We were delighted to see two Lions walkinh along the back of the waterhole and parties of Eland, Oryx and Giraffe were seen in the distance while parties of Kudu and Springbok came in to drink.

More Striped Tree (Congo Rope) Squirrels were seen in the grounds and the colourful Namibian Rock Agama and Flap-necked Chameleon were a good start to our reptile list.

We drove slowly out of the lodge stopping for two parties of White-tailed Shrikes along with Cape Vulture, Black-chested Snake-eagle, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Crombec, a party of White Helmet shrike and more, closer views of several Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra.

We left around 11.am to drive quickly to Etosha but several stops, including one between Kamanjab and Outjo which produced Common Scimitar-bill and another party of White-tailed Shrikes, meant that the time just trickled away. We decided to take a short cut along gravel roads which was very hot, limiting the bird activity, although we saw plenty of Sabota Lark and Scaly-fronted Weaver. We also saw some large termite mounds, mostly built up against a tree trunk.

As we entered Etosha we had Kori Bustard and a very close Red-crested Koorhan and we started to see Springboks and Zebras in the large numbers we were going to become used to. Southern Ground Squirrel also began to appear.

The evening visits to Okaukuejo waterhole produced our first Elephants and three Black Rhinoceros along with Giraffe and Black-backed Jackal. Sociable Weavers were nesting around the viewing area, 

Hobatere

We spent the morning birding around the grounds of Immanuelle Lodge before heading off on the long drive to Hobatere. As it was our first day we had to make very frequent stops to look at birds and mammals and we eventually arrived with about 30 minutes of light left – just enough time to visit the waterhole. After dinner we went on a 90 minute night drive.

Getting up at first light, I chose to take a dip in the swimming pool but found it difficult to enjoy as there were so many birds around in the plants, bushes and trees.

Immanuel Lodge gave us an excellent introduction to the commoner birds of Namibia with good views of Monteiro’s Hornbill, Acacia Pied Barbet, Kalahari Scrub-robin, Short-toed Rock Thrush, Long-billed Crombec, Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler, Barred Wren-babbler, Chat and Marico Flycatchers, Pririt Batis, Ashy Tit, Scarlet-chested and Marique Sunbirds, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Bru-bru, Black-faced Waxbill, Violet-eared Waxbill and the first of many White-browed Sparrow-weaver. An African Dormouse was also seen.

The long drive to Hobatere produced Lappet-faced Vulture, Black-headed Snake-eagle, Brown Snake-eagle, Dark Chanting Goshawk, lots of Pale Chanting Goshawks, a Little Sparrowhawk, Ruppell’s Parrot at the crossroads at Kamanjab, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, a party of Southern Pied Babblers, Damara Hornbill, Pearl-breasted Swallow and Chat Flycatcher.

Chacma Baboons were seen along the B1 and Warthogs were frequent between Outjo and Kamanjab. Giraffe and Slender Mongoose were also seen.

It was a 17km drive into Hobatere was on an unpaved road through wooded areas with several stops for birds. We managed a brief look round before dinner seeing Brown Snake-eagle, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Groundscraper Thrush, Meve’s Starling and close views of Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra.

The night drive was excellent with a guide and driver using high powered lamps to spot eye-shine and movement. They avoided the antelope species as they can be spooked by the lights. We had our first Kori Bustard, Spotted Thick-knee, Crowned Lapwing and Rufous-cheeked Nightjar. Our driver stopped and showed us one sitting in the track in the headlights. We were all asked to keep our torch lights on the bird and he got down and slowly approached the bird, stretching out his hand and slowly inching closer. A sudden dart and the bird was in the hand giving amazing views.  Added to this we had great views of two Bat-eared Fox, a Small-spotted Genet, several Black-backed Jackals, four African Wildcats, a Lioness, a Scrub Hare, a Chameleon and brief views of South African Porcupine. A brilliant evening.

Namibia - Immanuelle Lodge

We departed Heathrow at 1905hrs and flew with Lufthansa to Frankfurt and then onto Johannesburg where we arrived on time at 0850hrs. We had a couple of hours to kill so we had a meal and watched goings on outside and beginning our list with Sacred Ibis, Black-winged Kite, Grey-headed Gull, Cape Wagtail and Cape Sparrow. We then flew with SAS arriving in Windhoek at 1520hrs.

Passport control was slow but painless and we eventually picked up our hire car, a VW Golf. We had originally picked one with air conditioning and this proved the right option. We had problems with getting cash as the hole in the wall was not working and the Bureau de Change would not take our cards! The easiest places to get cash seemed to be at the major garages which often had an ATM with clear signs to this effect.

Whilst loading the car and filling out final paperwork we saw Augur Buzzard, Bradfield’s Swift, African Cliff Swallow, Burchell’s Starling and Familiar Chat.

We then headed for our accommodation at Immanuel Lodge north of Windhoek but managed a couple of roadside stops and a longer stop at Avis Dam staying there until dusk.

Black-winged Kite and Desert Cisticola were seen from the roadside and our stop at Avis Dam produced Blacksmith’s Plover, Three-banded Plover, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Purple Roller, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, African Palm Swift, Little Swift, African Pipit, Kalahari Scrub-robin, Short-toed Rock-thrush, Pririt Batis and Green-winged Pytilia.

A most beautiful introduction to a new country.